[Vwdiesel] Another leaky pump... Jury fix question???

[Scott Sullivan]

ATF will also swell the seals.  It also cleans the injectors at the same time.  Put a quart in the tank run it and let it sit for a few days.

Scot
--

On Mon, 3 Jun 2002 14:07:59
 G. Matthew Bulley wrote:
>I haven't fixed ours.
>The weather warmed back up into the 80's and 90's after a freak cold
>snap, and although there is still a slight leak, it isn't more than a
>drop every minute or so. I think when the pump body is cold, the leak is
>worse.
>
>Okay, I have a whacked out idea toward "fixing" this.  Since I have
>nothing to loose, I will probably try this, but want to know if anyone
>can pretest for me. There are certain brands of "Oil Stop Leak" which
>are thin petroleum distillates, and work by causing the rubber seals in
>the motor to swell up very slightly. I am thinking of buying a bottle of
>same, and with the motor running at a high idle, pour about 4 oz into
>the fuel filter through the vent line. Run the motor for 10-15 seconds
>more (until the chemical is sucked into the pump), then cut the motor
>off, and let it sit overnight.
>
>Before I do this, is there any reason I wouldn't want to do this? Also,
>does anyone have an old pump disassembled, such that they can take one
>of these old distribution block seals, measure with a micrometer, then
>immerse in "Bearing Seal"?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Developing business and guiding change since 1996,
>
>G. Matthew Bulley
>Bulley-Hewlett
>Marketing & Communications
>Business: www.bulley-hewlett.com
>Phone: +1.919.658.1278
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Lee Hillsgrove [mailto:hillsgrove at adelphia.net]
>Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 12:38 AM
>To: vwdiesel at audifans.com; Audi-VW-Diesels at yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [Audi-VW-Diesels] Another leaky pump.....
>
>
>
>  Seems like there is a bunch of them lately. Add mine to the list.
>:-((
>
> '85 Jetta 1.6 NA, 143K, car has been sitting since last Fall when I
>parked
>it for the winter. No sign of the leak then. Now, when I went to fire it
>up
>to do the front brakes and get it ready for the road, it took some
>cranking
>to get it started and I noticed some diesel fuel on the ground under it.
>There is a steady drip from between the distribution block and body of
>the
>pump while it is running which gets worse with increased RPM. Apparently
>it
>drips enough to make the pump lose prime over a long period of time,
>too.
>That has never happened to me before.
> I need to get the car running ASAP for wife to drive, as her car is out
>of
>commission due to a moose strike and the rental car has to go back soon.
>I
>wasn't expecting to find this or I would have got started on it earlier.
> I have a spare '86 pump to swap in, but none of the required special
>tools
>to do so. I know I will need the cam lock plate, pump lock pin,
>tensioner
>pin wrench, and dial indicator with adapter. Am I missing anything?
>Might as
>well change the timing belt while I'm in there, so that means a new belt
>and
>tensioner. I don't think I want to tackle the water pump or
>crank/cam/aux.
>shaft seals right now due to time constraints, although I know that now
>would be the time to do them.
> Best prices I have found online are from Adirondack  - $9 for the pump
>pin,
>$15 for the cam plate, and $125 for the indicator and adapter. The pin
>wrench can be found on eBay for $9.99 + $3.50. They also have the belt
>for
>$13.50 and the tensioner for $19. Sound about right?
> Any problem upgrading to an '86 pump with the idle speed increase? The
>cold
>start advance knob should be the same, right? Only difference I can
>think of
>is that the '86 car has a detent in the knob to help denote the
>difference
>between just timing advance and idle speed increase with timing advance.
>At
>least it feels like there is a detent there. Whoopee.
> Took the car out for a road test after doing the front brakes. I
>haven't
>driven it since I got my TDI in November. Where'd the power go? This
>thing
>needs a turbo!
>
> Comments welcome,
>
>  Lee
>  Oo-v-oO
>  PP-ASEL
>  KB1GNI
>
>
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>
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