[Vwdiesel] about to re-ring, scuff question

[LBaird119 at aol.com]

> I was thinking of using an oil-soaked Scotch-Brite pad
>  to rough up the walls a bit.  With care, I could avoid having any crap
>  drip into the engine... I hope.  What do you think?

  I think you're nuts!  ;-)
  The proper "solvent" you're supposed to use after honing is soap and
water.  Theoretically petroleum based solvents will allow the small metal
bits to work further into the pores rather than wash them out.  They come
out later causing wear.  I've had good luck with this method.
  The nice thing about a Rabbit/Jetta re-ring is you don't have to pull the
engine.  :)  You just pull the head, pan and pistons.  You really need to
scrape all the carbon out of the ring groves or you could end up breaking
the rings when trying to install the pistons.  I've found that a grove
scraper
is well worth having.  It sure saves slicing your thumb and finger up on the
sharp edge of an old ring while scraping.
  I use a 3 stone hone.  It lets you round out and straighten out the walls
a little if need be.  Also shows you how bad the cylinder is or isn't.  It's
just a cheapie, so to speak from Sears or the local auto parts store.  It's
the right grit too.  A scotch brite wouldn't even get close.
  I use as little oil as I can and place a couple of these blue shop paper
towels at the bottom of the cylinder I'm honing.  Remember, you only
have to hone as far as the rings go.  Not all the way to the bottom. :)
  When done honing, wipe down the cylinder walls.  When done with
all of them get the soapy water and NOW it's time for the scotch brite!
Scrub it all clean, rinse well.  Tada, no solvents to worry about, it's clean
and you rinse any residual oil and metal away.  :)  If it's not going right
back together, lightly wipe some oil on the cylinder walls and when
assembling you can oil the skirts.  Put the rings in DRY!  No oil on
the rings or groves other than what they scrape off.
     Loren