[Vwdiesel] about to re-ring, scuff question

[Gary Shea]

On Mon, 21 Oct 2002, at 18:42 [-0400], LBaird119 at aol.com spake thusly:

> > I was thinking of using an oil-soaked Scotch-Brite pad
> >  to rough up the walls a bit.  With care, I could avoid having any crap
> >  drip into the engine... I hope.  What do you think?
>
>   I think you're nuts!  ;-)

:)  Of course!

>   The proper "solvent" you're supposed to use after honing is soap and
> water.  Theoretically petroleum based solvents will allow the small metal
> bits to work further into the pores rather than wash them out.  They come
> out later causing wear.  I've had good luck with this method.
>   The nice thing about a Rabbit/Jetta re-ring is you don't have to pull the
> engine.  :)  You just pull the head, pan and pistons.  You really need to
> scrape all the carbon out of the ring groves or you could end up breaking
> the rings when trying to install the pistons.  I've found that a grove
> scraper
> is well worth having.  It sure saves slicing your thumb and finger up on the
> sharp edge of an old ring while scraping.
>   I use a 3 stone hone.  It lets you round out and straighten out the walls
> a little if need be.  Also shows you how bad the cylinder is or isn't.  It's
> just a cheapie, so to speak from Sears or the local auto parts store.  It's
> the right grit too.  A scotch brite wouldn't even get close.
>   I use as little oil as I can and place a couple of these blue shop paper
> towels at the bottom of the cylinder I'm honing.  Remember, you only
> have to hone as far as the rings go.  Not all the way to the bottom. :)
>   When done honing, wipe down the cylinder walls.  When done with
> all of them get the soapy water and NOW it's time for the scotch brite!
> Scrub it all clean, rinse well.  Tada, no solvents to worry about, it's clean
> and you rinse any residual oil and metal away.  :)  If it's not going right
> back together, lightly wipe some oil on the cylinder walls and when
> assembling you can oil the skirts.  Put the rings in DRY!  No oil on
> the rings or groves other than what they scrape off.
>      Loren

So if I read you right, the blue paper shop towels are preventing any of
the goop from getting into the bottom end?  When you use soap and water,
you're using a very small amount and just in the the cylinder that's
plugged off?  Man you have talent!

Every time I try something like that I have a disaster.  Reminds me of
an old "Wizard of Id" cartoon where one of the guys is making "water
balls" (yeah, the impossible kind) and stacking them up, tosses one to
another guy and of course water goes everywhere, 'cause the other guy is
some kind of misfit, can't even hold a water ball.  That would be me!

But what the hell... I'll give it a try! ;)  The ring groove cleaner
also sounds like a good idea.  I'll get the hone and groove cleaner at
Sears so I can take my various worthless ruined Sears screwdrivers back
for exchange!  Ever have to take a ridge-reamer to the cylinder?  My TD
is just slightly out of tolerance, but still has almost no ridge
somewhow..

I'm amazed that you can get the head off without taking the engine out,
but it sounds great!  I took a quick look a few days ago, and had
convinced myself that I wouldn't be able to get to the intake and
exhaust manifold Allen screws.  I'll have to try harder.  Do you take
the hood off so you can get in there better?  Ooooh, does that maybe
mean I don't have to undo those horrible exhaust clamps?  Just leave the
manifold hanging there?

	Gary