[Vwdiesel] AC woes

[Nate Wall]

Thanks Val. I don't have impact (air) tools, and I
think I've seen auto A/C clutch hub holder pliers
somewhere before. I'll attempt to remove the clutch
coil from the old compressor first using what I have
at hand  (and save the clutch disc, if there is one,
for my daily driver (the other '85 Jetta TD, #1)). The
compressor on '85 Jetta TD #2 is removed from its
bracket and resting on the car's apron w/ lines
attached, because I removed its A/C bracket to fix the
bolt hole that was wallowed out and stripped and a
bolt that was broken off in another hole (I installed
a treaded insert and removed the broken bolt, good as
new, I hope). (Damn, the threaded insert kit (1.5 X 10
MM) was close to $40 at Pep Boys, double the price of
the SAE size kits).

Also got a couple of glow plugs and a timing belt and
return hose for the '84 Rabbit today. Dang, the diesel
projects are beginning to pile up. The new girlfriend
surely does not help matters either.

--Nate
--- Val Christian <val at swamps.roc.ny.us> wrote:
> Nate,
>
> Go to Autozone and borrow their AC clutch removal
> tool.  It clamps to
> the clutch, and facilitates removal of the nut.
> I've used a socket on
> a mouse, which has enough impact torque.  On VWs,
> I've only pulled a
> Sanyo clutch, so my VW experience is limited.  It
> was years ago, and I
> have a standard puller set, so I was able to do it.
> (Memory fades)
>
> Oh, on my 91, with an R-12 system, slightly
> overcharged does not
> adversely cause overcycling.  I can't give you
> metrics, but it cycles
> less than the average car that I end up driving.
> And I _do_ notice it
> because the car slows down when the compressor fires
> up.  About 3 mph
> at 70 mph road speed.
>
> Back to the clutch, you should be just fine doing it
> on the car, although
> you may need to pull the compressor off the mounts
> to get access all the
> way around.  You won't need to discharge the system.
>  You won't need to
> put the compressor in a press or otherwise wholesale
> remove it from the car.
>
> A final divergence...R-12 systems generally work
> nicer in cars.  R-134a
> systems are a pain.  The 134 has a smaller molecular
> size, which means it
> leaks out faster.  A system which would keep R-12
> for YEARS might only
> hold R-134a for weeks.  Therefore, vacuum testing of
> R-134a systems is
> important.  I tend to pull a vacuum, and then let it
> sit overnight.  If
> it's gone from say, 29 inches to 25 inches, in 12
> hours, I look for a leak,
> and retest overnight.  Otherwise, I'm dumping R-134a
> into the system and
> throwing $$$ away.  (Forgive the rant and rave about
> doing the job right.)
>
> Val
>
> ps: If you have problems with the clutch, drop me an
> email.  I have
> a Sanyo in the basement with the compressor intact,
> and I can pull it
> and verify how it works.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> >
> > Since we are on the sumject of A/Cs, I have a
> > question:
> >
> > Jetta TD #2 has the wires to the A/C clutch cut
> > through (a previous owner thing), right at the
> clutch,
> > so a splice is questionable. But I have an
> identical
> > spare used A/C compressor. How do I swap the
> magnetic
> > clutch/coil between the compressors? I suppose I
> have
> > to figure how to get the shaft nut off w/out the
> shaft
> > turning. Can I do it w/out discharging the system
> > (assuming there is refrigerant in it)? Tx.
>
> >
> > --Nate
> > --- Val Christian <val at swamps.roc.ny.us> wrote:
> > > Probably overcharged.  A manifold set will tell
> you
> > > right away.
> > > If you have a gauge set, and want some help, let
> me
> > > know.
> > >
> > > It's hard on the system to run overcharged all
> the
> > > time, as you see
> > > from your belt problem.
> > >
> > > I confess to slightly overcharging my 91 system,
> but
> > > it sure is nice
> > > getting all the 32F air one can handle on a hot
> day.
> > >
> > > You should check the pressures, and consider
> backing
> > > off some of the
> > > charge, if they're high.
> > >
> > > Val
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > I need a little help here.
> > > >
> > > > I have a 92 turbo diesel. When I turn on the
> AC
> > > the tach drops 500 rpm
> > > > or so. This, along with the fact that I hear a
> > > belt squeal when the AC
> > > > is on and the car is cold would lead me to
> believe
> > > that the belt is
> > > > loose.
> > > >
> > > > It isn't. In fact, the previous belt was
> > > over-tight to the extent that
> > > > it broke after about 2,000 km.
> > > >
> > > > Is it possible for the AC system to be
> overfull of
> > > Freon, thereby
> > > > putting too much of a load on everything? If
> so,
> > > how would I check it?
> > > >
> > > > Ethan
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
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