[Vwdiesel] AC woes

Val Christian val at swamps.roc.ny.us
Sat Aug 2 18:00:02 EDT 2003


Nate,

I had one VW, a 79 or an 80 (I remember them by color better),
which had nothing but headaches in the AC section.  The engine
vibrated worse than any other VW diesel I've owned (quite a few),
and bolts broke and holes elongated.  In retrospect, it was a
real mess.  The altenator gave out, or lost it's mount, on a
trip once, and I ended up completing the trip with a bunch of
flashlight batteries to run the injector pump all the way home.
600 miles.

That car was the only VW yet, where I had a failed electric
clutch on the AC.  In fact, I've had them wear out on other vehicles,
but on this one, it shorted out.  And then took out the fuse, and
was a royal pain.  Replace the fuse, and it would be OK.  Until
it shorted again sometime.  Now, I attribute it to the vibration.
Probably cracked the coil and potting compound.

Nate, I hear you buddy on the girlfriend getting in the way of
car (airplane, boat, woodworking, ham radio, etc.) projects.
Look bud, where there's lemon, you gotta make lemonaid.  So you
tell her that it's going to be 90F today, and humid, but you gotta
replace the fragelator on your defricillator on your car, and
her help is critical to the success of the project.  Now if she'll
just dig into her closet, and extract those old Daisy Dukes, yep,
those;  uh huh, yes, the ones with only pockets.  Yep those will
help nicely.  Wear those and be over about 8am so we can get an
early start on the project...

We bleed for you buddy...but when you get the AC running nicely, it'll all
be allot better.  You'll need to cool off.

Val






>
> Thanks Val. I don't have impact (air) tools, and I
> think I've seen auto A/C clutch hub holder pliers
> somewhere before. I'll attempt to remove the clutch
> coil from the old compressor first using what I have
> at hand  (and save the clutch disc, if there is one,
> for my daily driver (the other '85 Jetta TD, #1)). The
> compressor on '85 Jetta TD #2 is removed from its
> bracket and resting on the car's apron w/ lines
> attached, because I removed its A/C bracket to fix the
> bolt hole that was wallowed out and stripped and a
> bolt that was broken off in another hole (I installed
> a treaded insert and removed the broken bolt, good as
> new, I hope). (Damn, the threaded insert kit (1.5 X 10
> MM) was close to $40 at Pep Boys, double the price of
> the SAE size kits).
>
> Also got a couple of glow plugs and a timing belt and
> return hose for the '84 Rabbit today. Dang, the diesel
> projects are beginning to pile up. The new girlfriend
> surely does not help matters either.
>
> --Nate
> --- Val Christian <val at swamps.roc.ny.us> wrote:
> > Nate,
> >
> > Go to Autozone and borrow their AC clutch removal
> > tool.  It clamps to
> > the clutch, and facilitates removal of the nut.
> > I've used a socket on
> > a mouse, which has enough impact torque.  On VWs,
> > I've only pulled a
> > Sanyo clutch, so my VW experience is limited.  It
> > was years ago, and I
> > have a standard puller set, so I was able to do it.
> > (Memory fades)
> >
> > Oh, on my 91, with an R-12 system, slightly
> > overcharged does not
> > adversely cause overcycling.  I can't give you
> > metrics, but it cycles
> > less than the average car that I end up driving.
> > And I _do_ notice it
> > because the car slows down when the compressor fires
> > up.  About 3 mph
> > at 70 mph road speed.
> >
> > Back to the clutch, you should be just fine doing it
> > on the car, although
> > you may need to pull the compressor off the mounts
> > to get access all the
> > way around.  You won't need to discharge the system.
> >  You won't need to
> > put the compressor in a press or otherwise wholesale
> > remove it from the car.
> >
> > A final divergence...R-12 systems generally work
> > nicer in cars.  R-134a
> > systems are a pain.  The 134 has a smaller molecular
> > size, which means it
> > leaks out faster.  A system which would keep R-12
> > for YEARS might only
> > hold R-134a for weeks.  Therefore, vacuum testing of
> > R-134a systems is
> > important.  I tend to pull a vacuum, and then let it
> > sit overnight.  If
> > it's gone from say, 29 inches to 25 inches, in 12
> > hours, I look for a leak,
> > and retest overnight.  Otherwise, I'm dumping R-134a
> > into the system and
> > throwing $$$ away.  (Forgive the rant and rave about
> > doing the job right.)
> >
> > Val
> >
> > ps: If you have problems with the clutch, drop me an
> > email.  I have
> > a Sanyo in the basement with the compressor intact,
> > and I can pull it
> > and verify how it works.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Since we are on the sumject of A/Cs, I have a
> > > question:
> > >
> > > Jetta TD #2 has the wires to the A/C clutch cut
> > > through (a previous owner thing), right at the
> > clutch,
> > > so a splice is questionable. But I have an
> > identical
> > > spare used A/C compressor. How do I swap the
> > magnetic
> > > clutch/coil between the compressors? I suppose I
> > have
> > > to figure how to get the shaft nut off w/out the
> > shaft
> > > turning. Can I do it w/out discharging the system
> > > (assuming there is refrigerant in it)? Tx.
> >
> > >
> > > --Nate
> > > --- Val Christian <val at swamps.roc.ny.us> wrote:
> > > > Probably overcharged.  A manifold set will tell
> > you
> > > > right away.
> > > > If you have a gauge set, and want some help, let
> > me
> > > > know.
> > > >
> > > > It's hard on the system to run overcharged all
> > the
> > > > time, as you see
> > > > from your belt problem.
> > > >
> > > > I confess to slightly overcharging my 91 system,
> > but
> > > > it sure is nice
> > > > getting all the 32F air one can handle on a hot
> > day.
> > > >
> > > > You should check the pressures, and consider
> > backing
> > > > off some of the
> > > > charge, if they're high.
> > > >
> > > > Val
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > I need a little help here.
> > > > >
> > > > > I have a 92 turbo diesel. When I turn on the
> > AC
> > > > the tach drops 500 rpm
> > > > > or so. This, along with the fact that I hear a
> > > > belt squeal when the AC
> > > > > is on and the car is cold would lead me to
> > believe
> > > > that the belt is
> > > > > loose.
> > > > >
> > > > > It isn't. In fact, the previous belt was
> > > > over-tight to the extent that
> > > > > it broke after about 2,000 km.
> > > > >
> > > > > Is it possible for the AC system to be
> > overfull of
> > > > Freon, thereby
> > > > > putting too much of a load on everything? If
> > so,
> > > > how would I check it?
> > > > >
> > > > > Ethan
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > > > > vwdiesel mailing list
> > > > > vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> > > > >
> > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > vwdiesel mailing list
> > > > vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> > > >
> > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> > >
> > >
> > > __________________________________
> > > Do you Yahoo!?
> > > Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site
> > design software
> > > http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > vwdiesel mailing list
> > > vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> > >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
> http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
>




More information about the Vwdiesel mailing list