[Vwdiesel] Need help getting parts from Germany

[Charlie Smith]

Earlier, Michael Snow wrote:
>
> Charlie Smith wrote:
> > Earlier, Bob O Shaughnessy wrote:
> > > In order to do my TD Westfalia project right, I need to get a few
> > > parts from Germany, where the JX engine (1.6 TD for the Vanagon)
> > > was sold.
> > >
> > > Specifically, I need the Diesel fuel pump, the injector lines and the
> > > oil pan with the fitting for the oil drain line from the turbo.
> > >
> > > I've been trying to find someone over there who has a good chance of
> > > getting these parts and will ship to the US.
> >
> > You can get by without those parts.  I don't know what year engine you
> > are using, but on the earlier injection pumps you can adjust total fuel
> > injected to be greater - to take advantage of the extra air pushed in
> > by the turbo.  All that will happen without the pressure diaphram
> > is that you may go too rich (black smoke) before turbo boost builds
> > up after nailing the throttle.
> >
> > The oil drain return fitting is simple to weld into the oil pan.
> >
> Charlie, are you saying that you can use the turbocharger with an
> unmodified 1.6NA injection pump?  If you have done this successfully,
> I'd like to hear the details.  I am in the same boat as Bob.  I have a
> 1985 Jetta 1.6TD motor and a set of Quantum manifolds and turbo.  I know
> that the TD injectors are different, and it's possible that the fuel
> delivery valves and pump cam are different also.  I have run my van with
> the full Jetta engine installed, but I'm looking for a JX injector pump
> to clear the stock engine lid.
>
> Mike Snow
> 1982 Westfalia diesel

I have put a turbo on a couple of NA engines.  First a '78 1.5L into
a '76 Sirocco with a Shelby Spearco IHI turbo kit, and then later
I put a turbo onto a '83 1.6L NA in a pickup.

There is a screw with a locknut, on the end of the pump away from the
pulley.  This screw adjusts how much fuel is injected at full throttle.
It is very sensitive, go maybe 1/8 turn at a time.  As I remember,
turning it IN gets more fuel.  This screw goes in horizontally into the
top end of the pump.

When you are driving, and as you push the throttle pedal down you don't
get much change in power until a point (usually near the floor) where it
seems to make a good bit more power in that last bit of pedal movement.
As you turn the above screw in, it will more the point of "starting to
make power" higher and higher off the floor.

If you turn it too far in, you will start to see black smoke at full
throttle - so then back it out a bit until the smoke goes away.

Now, if this is a bolt on turbo we are talking about, here's a caution
to watch.  Fuel injection starts at the point where you've timed the pump.
The injection pump injects a fixed amount for given amount of pump pulley
rotation, so when you turn the screw in to inject more total fuel - you
are lengthening the period of fuel injection.  If you had an exhaust gas
temperature gauge, and if you kept turning the screw in to get more fuel,
you would see some point where the exhaust gas temperature will really
shoot up - because as you lengthened the duration of the injection (to get
more fuel in) you got to the point where the fuel wasn't finished burning
when the exhaust valve opened.  Thus the big increase in exhaust gas
temperature.

The solution to this, is to advance the pump timing.  Advancing the pump
timing lets you get more fuel in (with the longer duration) and still
lets the burning get finished before the exhaust valve opens.

I don't know how to tell how much is too much (and too hot), without an
exhaust gas temperature gauge.  I've always used 1100F after the turbo
as a "red line" temperature.

A good place to find an exhaust gas temp gauge is go visit one of your
local big truck diesel shops that rebuilds pumps.  Here in Columbus
Ohio I've had good results at Columbus Diesel, 614-445-8391.

With an add-on turbo, VW or otherwise, you can play with this and keep
getting more power.  Then of course, you'll start raising the boost
by playing with the wastegate  :-)  I was running 11 or 12 PSI with my
IHI turbo kit.


>
> I have also considered fabricating the oil drain fitting by
> welding/drilling/tapping a regular oil pan, but I have the fortune of
> owning a TD Vanagon oil pan.  I would weld before buying one.

It's not that hard to modify a stock pan.  Seems I recollect there are
at least a couple sizes of oil pans, so get the later larger one if you
can.  I don't remember, it may have been the 1.5L pans that were smaller.
Just make sure that you have a straight unrestricted passage for oil from
the turbo to the pan, and get the entry back into the pan located as high
as you can.  With a laid over engine in a Vanagon, you will need to be
careful.  Return oil flowing back into the pan below the level of the oil
in the pan will probably work poorly if at all.

And, it should go without saying that you need to watch your oil
temperatures at high load.  An external oil cooler will be a very good
thing if you are going to push a vanagon hard in hills.  I could get
the '83 pickup's oil way too hot pushing on the Pa. Turnpike.  The
factory oil to water cooler is fine, but it just prolongs the point of
overheat making you back off.

    - Charlie


  Charlie Smith   charlie at elektro.cmhnet.org  614-471-1418
  http://www.elektro.com/~charlie      Columbus Ohio   USA
  http://www.elektro.com/~audi     photos & technical info

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