[Vwdiesel] Voltage drop when glowplugs working !

[Lee Hillsgrove]

> Well, I replaced 1 glowplug this morning. I wasn't able to unhook the
busbar
> on the 2 leftmost glowplugs to test them individually, so did them in
> parallel.  My fingers aren't 8" long and 1/4" thick.  How do you guys ever
> get that busbar off behind the injector pump anyway?
> Sheesh! It's worse than working on my Austin Mini for room back there.
> Anyways, I am firing AT LEAST 3 glowplgs now---hopefully 4.
>



  Here's a reprint of a post I made from archived material a while ago,
might be a help to give you some ideas about access to the glow plugs. Some
of it might not be exactly what you asked for, but it's all good info:



" ">Any tips for getting to the glow plugs behind the pump? I was thinking
>of getting a long wrench or welding a piece of metal to a wrench so I
>can get to it.
>
>But after I get the off, how do I get it back on, my hand will barely
>fit to get to the two middle ones.
>
>What have you guys done.

I used an 8mm wrench from Sears, one of the new types that is supposed to
act like a ratchet on the open end. Can't remember the name, maybe Quick
Wrench? They are longer than a standard wrench which allows you to reach
those 2 nuts behind the injector pump. I didn't use the special open end,
just the box end. Welding an extension to a standard length wrench would
accomplish the same thing.
It will save time to pull the injector lines. No question.
I have used the bent piece of wire trick to start the nuts before with
pretty good success.
The post-'85 pumps, with the idle speed increasing lever on the back of the
pump, offer significantly more challenge. The lever is right in the way.

  Lee


All of them can be removed and replaced without removing injectors or
lines, it's just extremely tedious as you have to turn the terminal nut,
then the plug, about 1/16 of a revolution per wrench application.

It helps immensely to:

1. Get the special long box end wrenches and
2. Fasten a string to the wrench somehow to retrieve it when you drop it
(you will)
3. Piece of bent coathanger wire to retrieve nuts when you drop them.

Approach the 2 behind the injection pump with a deliberate patient "I'm
going to do this if it kills me" attitude.

Place a thick piece of carpet over the edge of the fender to ease the pain
to the belly from leaning on it so long.
--
Sandy Cameron


the easiest way is to grab a 17mm, open end wrench and pull the
injector lines off.  Then an 8mm wrench or socket will get #'s 3 and
4 nuts off.  # 2 seems like, will also come off with a regular, combination
wrench.  # 1 is more challenging.  A deep offset boxend wrench is great
for it.  Now the buss bar is free.  Now start in with 12 mm tools.  Removing
2, 3 and 4 are fairly easy and # 1 a challenge.  Again, a 12mm deep offset
box makes it very doable albeit a little slow going, due to the restricted
movement.

   Reassembly:  getting the glow plugs into the holes isn't too bad
if you have skinny fingers.  Just grab by the small threads, by two
fingers, and get it in the hole, it will thread from there.  Getting the
nuts on can be a challenge unless you use a long, small screwdriver
or wire.  Place the nut on the wire or screwdriver shaft and hold it at
the top.  Place the bottom end against the threads, hol it ther and let
the nut go.  You can then get a skinny finger in ther to spin it until it
catches a thread, or use another screwdriver to spin it.  Now tighten
the nuts and you're done.  Don't forget to put the red/white stripe wire
back on the # 4 glow plug.  Some anti seize on the plug to head threads
wouldn't hurt either.
      Loren


Regarding the recent discussion on replacing glow plugs etc.:-

The method I use to stop the agro when re-attching the bus bar/nuts to the
glow plugs after they are re-installed in the head, is to remove the first
1 to 2 threads from the plug down to the root of the threads so that the
nut will stay on the stud when you put it there with a wire  or somesuch.
Then it can be turned without all the problems of it falling off the stud
all the time.

The only precaution needed is to make sure the thread start is clear of
burrs and that the nut will easily engage on the threads when turned,
before installing the glow plugs.

Bill Osborne

Removing the glow plug bus bar nuts are a real pain.  Here's an easy trick
for the two behind the pump:  After you get them loose w/ a wrench (a long
handled one helps). take a piece of coat hanger wire about 14 inches long
and bend a small "V" at one end.  Extend the right side of the V about 5 mm
out, horizontally.  Take the wire and place its end of its "V" you made
against the end of the glow plug stud.  Take a thin long screwdriver and
unscrew the nut w/ it.  The nut will fall of the stud and slide down into
the V for easy retrieval.  To install take a straight coathanger wire and
place one end firmly against the glow plug stud.  Slide the nut over the
other end.  Fiddle around w/ the screwdriver to get the nut started on the
stud, while holding the coathanger wire's end against the stud.  This method
works great for other inaccessible areas, like some of the valve cover nuts.
Also, a LONG handle 12 mm wrench is almost a must to reach the glowplugs.

--Nate


You'll only need a few tools and a lot of eggs because you'll need
to beat up something when it's all over.  Here's the brief version.  Remove
all impressionable children from the vicinity.  Open the hood and get some
good lighting. Have some injector return line on hand, either to replace it
all or pieces.  Remove the injector lines from both the pump and injectors
as a unit and assure all of the lines are fully disconnected before
extraction.  Do not remove the line clamps. You may have to remove the stop
solenoid wire too.  You may want to buy a shorty 17 mm open end to ease the
R & R of the #     line (or make one.)  Remove the glow plug supply line
and park it out of the way.  Here's where the fun starts.  If you want the
worst first, do #1.  It's only buried like some young Pharoah in a vault of
aluminum and cast iron, accessible with reason only by people named Carter
and a bunch of harried Egyptians scrambling about.  (You might want to
start the omelet now) Get a good 12 pt-8mm wrench (typical) and remove the
nuts on the Buss. Weasel, wiggle or pry off the Buss. Not all new glow
plugs come with new Buss nuts so either don't lose them or get extras. Duct
tape is not on this list. Yet.  A 6pt or 12pt 12mm x-long wrench and
PATIENCE! will usually remove the glow plugs.  Same with #2.  As work your
way down to the oh so sensuous #4, which stares at you like a deer, life is
getting good.  Add onions. Installation requires surgical focus. If you
crossthread #1 or #2, you'll need a chicken farm. I use a long pair of
needle nose, 10 in., to insert the glow plug into the head with a little
anti-seize on the threads and if you don't have hands like Shaq, you can
often give a little hand turning before resorting to the wrench.  But it's
tight as...  #2 is also grounds for termination of the engineers but carry
on.  Tighten well. Remember they're in the compression zone.  Install the
Buss on all four plugs and don't forget the supply.  To install the itsy
bitsy nuts I take a thin wire, in this case a 3/32 Tig rod and bend it into
an L a bit less than 90 with the leg about a half inch.  I put a little
grease on the rod to keep the nut from flying off into the black hole and
lower it in behind the pump.  I put the leg right on the stud and push the
nut onto the threads with another rod, then the wrench.  It works best for
me.  I'm sure there are other ways.  #3 an #4 are usually easy. Replace the
injector lines.  Bleeding is not always necessary, most will purge the air
through the return but whatever. Replace the other stuff.  Now, wasn't the
special?  Bon appetit and hey, it could be worse, it could be a Peugeot."



>
>Do I just zap down to the local parts store and buy the replacement
>parts?  Do I need anything more than the plugs, like special seals,
>heat shields, etc., that I am not being informed about?
>


  No heat shields needed, those are for the injectors. Just use a dab of
antiseize on the threads.
 It might be a good idea to test the new plugs before you install them, just
to be on the safe side. Remember, "New means not used, new does not mean
good". Use a 10 amp battery charger, or carefully use a set of jumper cables
off of the battery. If good, they should glow red in a second or two. It
might sound stupid, but BE CAREFUL! They get HOT! (Ask me why I know....)
They stay hot for quite a while, too.

 As to what type of plugs to buy, there are two things to keep in mind: Fast
or Slow glow, and brand. Being an '85, you -should- have fast glow plugs,
but here's how you can tell the difference:

"When looking at the little collar right behind the threads for the buss bar
nut, just remember this rule.  Silver - slow, brass - fast. "

 Boy, I like copy and paste!

 As to brand, use nothing but genuine Bosch, IMHO. I have heard horror
stories about Champion. Also, if you only replace a few plugs, MAKE SURE you
put the new ones behind the injection pump. You'll know why when you change
them out.

 Finally, Roger Brown has a bunch of good info on his site:
http://4crawler.cruiserpages.com/Diesel/CheapTricks/GlowPlugs.shtml

 Thanks, Roger!"


  Lee
  Oo-v-oO
  PP-ASEL
  KB1GNI