[Vwdiesel] Voltage drop when glowplugs working !

[Nate Wall]

I have this down to a science. SECURLY Duct tape an 8
MM combination wrench to a long thin screwdriver.(box
end down). Use this to remove the bus bar nuts. Right
at the point the nut is very loose, take a coat hanger
wire w/ a hook bent into its end and place against the
glow plug stud. Take another long thin screwdriver and
spin the nut off the plug and let it fall onto the
coathanger wire to retreive. To put the nut on, slide
it down the coathanger wire and onto the stud and
start it by spinning it on w/ the screwdriver.

--Nate
--- Lee Hillsgrove <hillsgrove at adelphia.net> wrote:
>
> > Well, I replaced 1 glowplug this morning. I wasn't
> able to unhook the
> busbar
> > on the 2 leftmost glowplugs to test them
> individually, so did them in
> > parallel.  My fingers aren't 8" long and 1/4"
> thick.  How do you guys ever
> > get that busbar off behind the injector pump
> anyway?
> > Sheesh! It's worse than working on my Austin Mini
> for room back there.
> > Anyways, I am firing AT LEAST 3 glowplgs
> now---hopefully 4.
> >
>
>
>
>   Here's a reprint of a post I made from archived
> material a while ago,
> might be a help to give you some ideas about access
> to the glow plugs. Some
> of it might not be exactly what you asked for, but
> it's all good info:
>
>
>
> " ">Any tips for getting to the glow plugs behind
> the pump? I was thinking
> >of getting a long wrench or welding a piece of
> metal to a wrench so I
> >can get to it.
> >
> >But after I get the off, how do I get it back on,
> my hand will barely
> >fit to get to the two middle ones.
> >
> >What have you guys done.
>
> I used an 8mm wrench from Sears, one of the new
> types that is supposed to
> act like a ratchet on the open end. Can't remember
> the name, maybe Quick
> Wrench? They are longer than a standard wrench which
> allows you to reach
> those 2 nuts behind the injector pump. I didn't use
> the special open end,
> just the box end. Welding an extension to a standard
> length wrench would
> accomplish the same thing.
> It will save time to pull the injector lines. No
> question.
> I have used the bent piece of wire trick to start
> the nuts before with
> pretty good success.
> The post-'85 pumps, with the idle speed increasing
> lever on the back of the
> pump, offer significantly more challenge. The lever
> is right in the way.
>
>   Lee
>
>
> All of them can be removed and replaced without
> removing injectors or
> lines, it's just extremely tedious as you have to
> turn the terminal nut,
> then the plug, about 1/16 of a revolution per wrench
> application.
>
> It helps immensely to:
>
> 1. Get the special long box end wrenches and
> 2. Fasten a string to the wrench somehow to retrieve
> it when you drop it
> (you will)
> 3. Piece of bent coathanger wire to retrieve nuts
> when you drop them.
>
> Approach the 2 behind the injection pump with a
> deliberate patient "I'm
> going to do this if it kills me" attitude.
>
> Place a thick piece of carpet over the edge of the
> fender to ease the pain
> to the belly from leaning on it so long.
> --
> Sandy Cameron
>
>
> the easiest way is to grab a 17mm, open end wrench
> and pull the
> injector lines off.  Then an 8mm wrench or socket
> will get #'s 3 and
> 4 nuts off.  # 2 seems like, will also come off with
> a regular, combination
> wrench.  # 1 is more challenging.  A deep offset
> boxend wrench is great
> for it.  Now the buss bar is free.  Now start in
> with 12 mm tools.  Removing
> 2, 3 and 4 are fairly easy and # 1 a challenge.
> Again, a 12mm deep offset
> box makes it very doable albeit a little slow going,
> due to the restricted
> movement.
>
>    Reassembly:  getting the glow plugs into the
> holes isn't too bad
> if you have skinny fingers.  Just grab by the small
> threads, by two
> fingers, and get it in the hole, it will thread from
> there.  Getting the
> nuts on can be a challenge unless you use a long,
> small screwdriver
> or wire.  Place the nut on the wire or screwdriver
> shaft and hold it at
> the top.  Place the bottom end against the threads,
> hol it ther and let
> the nut go.  You can then get a skinny finger in
> ther to spin it until it
> catches a thread, or use another screwdriver to spin
> it.  Now tighten
> the nuts and you're done.  Don't forget to put the
> red/white stripe wire
> back on the # 4 glow plug.  Some anti seize on the
> plug to head threads
> wouldn't hurt either.
>       Loren
>
>
> Regarding the recent discussion on replacing glow
> plugs etc.:-
>
> The method I use to stop the agro when re-attching
> the bus bar/nuts to the
> glow plugs after they are re-installed in the head,
> is to remove the first
> 1 to 2 threads from the plug down to the root of the
> threads so that the
> nut will stay on the stud when you put it there with
> a wire  or somesuch.
> Then it can be turned without all the problems of it
> falling off the stud
> all the time.
>
> The only precaution needed is to make sure the
> thread start is clear of
> burrs and that the nut will easily engage on the
> threads when turned,
> before installing the glow plugs.
>
> Bill Osborne
>
> Removing the glow plug bus bar nuts are a real pain.
>  Here's an easy trick
> for the two behind the pump:  After you get them
> loose w/ a wrench (a long
> handled one helps). take a piece of coat hanger wire
> about 14 inches long
> and bend a small "V" at one end.  Extend the right
> side of the V about 5 mm
> out, horizontally.  Take the wire and place its end
> of its "V" you made
> against the end of the glow plug stud.  Take a thin
> long screwdriver and
> unscrew the nut w/ it.  The nut will fall of the
> stud and slide down into
> the V for easy retrieval.  To install take a
> straight coathanger wire and
> place one end firmly against the glow plug stud.
> Slide the nut over the
> other end.  Fiddle around w/ the screwdriver to get
> the nut started on the
> stud, while holding the coathanger wire's end
> against the stud.  This method
> works great for other inaccessible areas, like some
> of the valve cover nuts.
> Also, a LONG handle 12 mm wrench is almost a must to
> reach the glowplugs.
>
> --Nate
>
>
> You'll only need a few tools and a lot of eggs
> because you'll need
> to beat up something when it's all over.  Here's the
> brief version.  Remove
> all impressionable children from the vicinity.  Open
> the hood and get some
> good lighting. Have some injector return line on
> hand, either to replace it
> all or pieces.  Remove the injector lines from both
> the pump and injectors
> as a unit and assure all of the lines are fully
> disconnected before
> extraction.  Do not remove the line clamps. You may
> have to remove the stop
> solenoid wire too.  You may want to buy a shorty 17
> mm open end to ease the
> R & R of the #     line (or make one.)  Remove the
> glow plug supply line
>
=== message truncated ===


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