[Vwdiesel] Voltage drop when glowplugs working !

[Mike & Coreen Smith]

LOL !
Before I read any of this I used a small 8mm wrench and the first thing I
did was tie it to a secure place with 30LB test fishing line.
I thought about taping it to a screwdriver, but never had enough patients to
complete the task as the mosquitos were eating me alive !  (they're VERY bad
where I live)

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: "Nate Wall" <natewall1 at yahoo.com>
To: "Lee Hillsgrove" <hillsgrove at adelphia.net>; <vwdiesel at audifans.com>
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2003 10:24 AM
Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Voltage drop when glowplugs working !


> I have this down to a science. SECURLY Duct tape an 8
> MM combination wrench to a long thin screwdriver.(box
> end down). Use this to remove the bus bar nuts. Right
> at the point the nut is very loose, take a coat hanger
> wire w/ a hook bent into its end and place against the
> glow plug stud. Take another long thin screwdriver and
> spin the nut off the plug and let it fall onto the
> coathanger wire to retreive. To put the nut on, slide
> it down the coathanger wire and onto the stud and
> start it by spinning it on w/ the screwdriver.
>
> --Nate
> --- Lee Hillsgrove <hillsgrove at adelphia.net> wrote:
> >
> > > Well, I replaced 1 glowplug this morning. I wasn't
> > able to unhook the
> > busbar
> > > on the 2 leftmost glowplugs to test them
> > individually, so did them in
> > > parallel.  My fingers aren't 8" long and 1/4"
> > thick.  How do you guys ever
> > > get that busbar off behind the injector pump
> > anyway?
> > > Sheesh! It's worse than working on my Austin Mini
> > for room back there.
> > > Anyways, I am firing AT LEAST 3 glowplgs
> > now---hopefully 4.
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >   Here's a reprint of a post I made from archived
> > material a while ago,
> > might be a help to give you some ideas about access
> > to the glow plugs. Some
> > of it might not be exactly what you asked for, but
> > it's all good info:
> >
> >
> >
> > " ">Any tips for getting to the glow plugs behind
> > the pump? I was thinking
> > >of getting a long wrench or welding a piece of
> > metal to a wrench so I
> > >can get to it.
> > >
> > >But after I get the off, how do I get it back on,
> > my hand will barely
> > >fit to get to the two middle ones.
> > >
> > >What have you guys done.
> >
> > I used an 8mm wrench from Sears, one of the new
> > types that is supposed to
> > act like a ratchet on the open end. Can't remember
> > the name, maybe Quick
> > Wrench? They are longer than a standard wrench which
> > allows you to reach
> > those 2 nuts behind the injector pump. I didn't use
> > the special open end,
> > just the box end. Welding an extension to a standard
> > length wrench would
> > accomplish the same thing.
> > It will save time to pull the injector lines. No
> > question.
> > I have used the bent piece of wire trick to start
> > the nuts before with
> > pretty good success.
> > The post-'85 pumps, with the idle speed increasing
> > lever on the back of the
> > pump, offer significantly more challenge. The lever
> > is right in the way.
> >
> >   Lee
> >
> >
> > All of them can be removed and replaced without
> > removing injectors or
> > lines, it's just extremely tedious as you have to
> > turn the terminal nut,
> > then the plug, about 1/16 of a revolution per wrench
> > application.
> >
> > It helps immensely to:
> >
> > 1. Get the special long box end wrenches and
> > 2. Fasten a string to the wrench somehow to retrieve
> > it when you drop it
> > (you will)
> > 3. Piece of bent coathanger wire to retrieve nuts
> > when you drop them.
> >
> > Approach the 2 behind the injection pump with a
> > deliberate patient "I'm
> > going to do this if it kills me" attitude.
> >
> > Place a thick piece of carpet over the edge of the
> > fender to ease the pain
> > to the belly from leaning on it so long.
> > --
> > Sandy Cameron
> >
> >
> > the easiest way is to grab a 17mm, open end wrench
> > and pull the
> > injector lines off.  Then an 8mm wrench or socket
> > will get #'s 3 and
> > 4 nuts off.  # 2 seems like, will also come off with
> > a regular, combination
> > wrench.  # 1 is more challenging.  A deep offset
> > boxend wrench is great
> > for it.  Now the buss bar is free.  Now start in
> > with 12 mm tools.  Removing
> > 2, 3 and 4 are fairly easy and # 1 a challenge.
> > Again, a 12mm deep offset
> > box makes it very doable albeit a little slow going,
> > due to the restricted
> > movement.
> >
> >    Reassembly:  getting the glow plugs into the
> > holes isn't too bad
> > if you have skinny fingers.  Just grab by the small
> > threads, by two
> > fingers, and get it in the hole, it will thread from
> > there.  Getting the
> > nuts on can be a challenge unless you use a long,
> > small screwdriver
> > or wire.  Place the nut on the wire or screwdriver
> > shaft and hold it at
> > the top.  Place the bottom end against the threads,
> > hol it ther and let
> > the nut go.  You can then get a skinny finger in
> > ther to spin it until it
> > catches a thread, or use another screwdriver to spin
> > it.  Now tighten
> > the nuts and you're done.  Don't forget to put the
> > red/white stripe wire
> > back on the # 4 glow plug.  Some anti seize on the
> > plug to head threads
> > wouldn't hurt either.
> >       Loren
> >
> >
> > Regarding the recent discussion on replacing glow
> > plugs etc.:-
> >
> > The method I use to stop the agro when re-attching
> > the bus bar/nuts to the
> > glow plugs after they are re-installed in the head,
> > is to remove the first
> > 1 to 2 threads from the plug down to the root of the
> > threads so that the
> > nut will stay on the stud when you put it there with
> > a wire  or somesuch.
> > Then it can be turned without all the problems of it
> > falling off the stud
> > all the time.
> >
> > The only precaution needed is to make sure the
> > thread start is clear of
> > burrs and that the nut will easily engage on the
> > threads when turned,
> > before installing the glow plugs.
> >
> > Bill Osborne
> >
> > Removing the glow plug bus bar nuts are a real pain.
> >  Here's an easy trick
> > for the two behind the pump:  After you get them
> > loose w/ a wrench (a long
> > handled one helps). take a piece of coat hanger wire
> > about 14 inches long
> > and bend a small "V" at one end.  Extend the right
> > side of the V about 5 mm
> > out, horizontally.  Take the wire and place its end
> > of its "V" you made
> > against the end of the glow plug stud.  Take a thin
> > long screwdriver and
> > unscrew the nut w/ it.  The nut will fall of the
> > stud and slide down into
> > the V for easy retrieval.  To install take a
> > straight coathanger wire and
> > place one end firmly against the glow plug stud.
> > Slide the nut over the
> > other end.  Fiddle around w/ the screwdriver to get
> > the nut started on the
> > stud, while holding the coathanger wire's end
> > against the stud.  This method
> > works great for other inaccessible areas, like some
> > of the valve cover nuts.
> > Also, a LONG handle 12 mm wrench is almost a must to
> > reach the glowplugs.
> >
> > --Nate
> >
> >
> > You'll only need a few tools and a lot of eggs
> > because you'll need
> > to beat up something when it's all over.  Here's the
> > brief version.  Remove
> > all impressionable children from the vicinity.  Open
> > the hood and get some
> > good lighting. Have some injector return line on
> > hand, either to replace it
> > all or pieces.  Remove the injector lines from both
> > the pump and injectors
> > as a unit and assure all of the lines are fully
> > disconnected before
> > extraction.  Do not remove the line clamps. You may
> > have to remove the stop
> > solenoid wire too.  You may want to buy a shorty 17
> > mm open end to ease the
> > R & R of the #     line (or make one.)  Remove the
> > glow plug supply line
> >
> === message truncated ===
>
>
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