[Vwdiesel] (Glow Plugs) Have I reached the end...for now.

[Matt]

Don't forget to check the glow plug fuse.  If that fuse is blown, no 
power will get to the plugs, and you'll be sitting there 
troubleshooting until you're blue in the face.

It's located on the firewall.  Be sure to remove it to see if it's 
cracked.  Even the slightest hairline fracture is enough.  I've looked 
at them before, and they looked good but didn't work.

If someone already suggested this, sorry.  So many emails, so little 
time... :)

-Matt
http://matt_lisa.home.sprynet.com/

On Aug 25, 2004, at 8:27 AM, McCanless, James wrote:

> Last week the Rabbit would not start so I immediately went to another
> vehicle. I got back to it last night. Having read all the archives on
> the Glow Plug system I have a question but first a little back ground.
> 1983 Rabbit Diesel NA 2Dr 124K miles, new pump about 10k, new 
> injections
> 1k, glow plugs 2k, timing belt 5k. Although I am new to the Rabbit
> diesel I am not new to diesels and my skills are not at the expert 
> level
> but certainly above average. I pulled the GPR and ensured the contacts
> were clean. I reinstalled the GPR and cycle the power. I could feel the
> relay energize and de-energize. I check the fusible link and its
> connections all good. I took a hot wire from the battery to the GP side
> of the fusible link for 7 seconds and vehicle started immediately. I am
> at a location away from all my tools and test equipment, so no
> multimeter with me, just a few hand tools. My questions. Is it possible
> for the relay to cycle but, not allow power to transfer? I would think
> that the power could cycle and if the transistor does not transfer that
> power to pin 87.  Without a multimeter I can't think of a way at this
> time to check pin 87, the power out pin from the relay. This has been 
> my
> process of elimination. Power is getting to the relay and providing
> power directly to GPs allows the engine to start as normal. This leaves
> either the wiring leaving relay, the relay, the socket at the back of
> the relay or ______(you fill in the blank to help). If I had my
> multimeter I would probably not be writing this!
>
> On the heels of yesterdays emails about the pump I pulled the cold 
> start
> after it started last night and I got a slight change in sound and no
> smoke. I don't know what Loren's definition of "A nice, noticeable
> change" is. I was thrilled to hear it start.
>
> "I've always used the sound change in pulling the advance lever as a
> quickie indicator of if the timing is set properly.  Cold:  If there is
> no
> change, the timing is usually too retarded.  If there's little change
> but
> it's really rattly then too advanced I'd guess. Never have encountered
> that scenario.  A nice, noticeable change and a bit smoother running
> and the timing is usually just right or real close.  Hot engine:  No
> change,
> timing is slightly retarded.  Very slight change in the sound is just
> right.  Never have seen it make a change in smoke but the most probable
> causes of white smoke is a bad injector or low compression (glow plug/s
> if just the first couple minutes.  Black smoke would likely be a bad
> injector.
>      Loren
>
> I had it running directly beside the 01 Jetta TDI. It sure makes the
> rabbit sound unrefined...but I guess it would be and unfair comparison.
>
> Troy
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