[Vwdiesel] Replacing flywheel bolts

[James Hansen]

Replacement isn't *really* necessary, but you should really be buying
lottery tickets Shawn, that TDI Touareg will soon be yours.
I have personally seen a tranny machined off by a wandering flywheel. It is
not pretty. Off.  Not rubbed the bellhousing, but cut off, and she drove the
car to the shop that way. Oi.

The driver's boyfriend "did" the clutch for her and in the process, "did" in
the entire powertrain as well. I have the cracked crank from that engine in
my shop yet.  There were a number of points not in his favor however...
"Don't need no steenkin' torque wrench, I know when a bolt is tight" ,
"Loctite..... Wuzzat?",  and so on.....

Properly torqued, the bolts *should* hold, but the threadlocker is to ensure
they don't un-hold.


Remember proper loctite ettiquette

-Do not apply it to the tip of a bolt, only to the threads behind the bolt
tip- you dont want to be pushing a wave of loctite ahead of the fastener
into a blind hole and hydraulic lock it... thus never dribble some into a
blind hole either.
-Clean clean clean
-Use primer to clean the hole and fastener, especially if they are oily.
This is a special threadlocking primer btw, and accelerates the cure time as
well.  Works VERY well.
-at the minimum, use a non-residual electrical cleaner or carb cleaner to
clean the fastening surfaces, as oil prevents adhesion
-Less is usually more
-Use the proper threadlocker for the job. ie- don't use red cylindrical
locking compound on a small fastener you intend on removing. It will not.
There are different grades of the stuff, as well as differing gap filling
specifications, from 2 up to 18thou gap filling capability. Stuff for
threads, use on threads, etc.
-have at least two different grades on hand, it hardly ever goes bad, and
will last for years if stored properly. (I still have some blue low strength
stuff of my Grandad's from the early 70's, and it works flawlessly)
-heat re-liquifies the product, making disassembly a breeze.  Your propane
torch is your friend. You can also use a pencil torch and heat the bolt head
only when in tight spots.
-Locked threads also do not rust, so a little heat on locked threads, and
that aluminum water pump half is off in no time.  Unlocked threads will be
usually be galvanically seized in this application, and antiseize is not
always desired... sometimes you want sort of want the fastener to be seized
so vibration can't wiggle stuff apart, but yeah, where on a diesel volks
would you find any vibration....
-Clean clean clean.

-James





-----Original Message-----
From: vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com [mailto:vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com]On
Behalf Of Shawn Wright
Sent: Friday, August 27, 2004 8:27 AM
To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Replacing flywheel bolts


On 27 Aug 2004 at 10:02, Libbybapa at wmconnect.com <Libbybapa at wmconnect.com>
wrote:

> I am currently putting a 1.6TD into an '83 diesel vanagon.  Before putting
the
> engine in I am changing basically all of the seals and gaskets (except
head).
> Looking at the vanagon Bentley, they say regarding the bolts that hold the
> flywheel to the crank "always replace, insert with D6 locking compound".
As
> they are not stretch bolts what is the necessity for replacement?  What is
D6?
> Medium or high strength?  Do others typically replace those bolts?  Can I
just
> clean them meticulously and reuse? Should be the same for any other IDI
diesel
> VW. Andrew

I've never replaced them in the 4-5 times I've had them out to do clutches
and seals,
1.6NA and TD engines. In fact, I've never even used Loctite... maybe I'm
just lucky?


--
Shawn Wright
http://Zuiko.sls.bc.ca/swright
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