[Vwdiesel] oil burner and pump timing update

[Bart Wineland]

Thanks for everyone's patience and help while I was getting this procedure 
through my bonehead. I will never admit to what I was doing that was making 
it so hard but once I saw the light (correct bolt #4) it is not 
difficult.  It did raise a couple questions and I hope I am not wearing out 
my welcome. I did take the opportunity to try out my Schley gauge I bought 
a long time ago and never knew how to use, although a "pencil line" of 
advance is probably where I ended up. I am not totally sure because in 
spite of every instruction I had the first pass of setting things I went 
ahead and did the procedure with the cold start cable pulled out. I ended 
up setting at .88mm (I think) when I did it again.  One of the procedures I 
had calls for pulling off the valve cover to find TDC on #1 to make sure 
both lobes are facing up.  I lined up the marks on my pump pulley and the 
bracket and checked that the flywheel marks lined up at the same time so I 
wonder why it would be necessary to pull the vc? (I didn't) The same 
procedure says to screw in the gauge to 3mm at #1 tdc, turn the engine 
backwards until the gauge stops moving set the gauge to 1mm and zero.  I 
had trouble screwing the gauge to 1mm and finally decided that I think that 
is an arbitrary number and the important thing is to zero it wherever it is 
as long as you have enough range left in the dial to measure the pump 
travel when you roll the engine forward again?  That is what I ended up 
doing and it still runs. Not sure if it helped my smoke yet but will see 
today. Believe it or not it is fun ruling things out and if I end up 
finding I need to re-ringing I will, but in the meantime I now have an idea 
how the Vacuum pump and crankcase ventilation works and now the pump timing 
(I think) I would never have figured it out just with the Bentley so thanks 
again to all for the help. Still have not received my compression gauge but 
it should be here soon. Made a 100 degree 13mm last night (man is it ugly) 
but it does get to the #4pump bolt, although I found I could get on it with 
a couple long extensions on my ratchet.

Bart

At 08:13 AM 7/12/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>Bart Wineland and all :
>
>Bart  relax ------if you are strugling -----you have not got the procedure 
>down pad.
>
>Or you have a non standard installation of pump.
>
>There are 3 bolts at the sprocket end .  The two top ones can be done with
>standard box wrench.  The botton one use a deep socket through hole in
>sprocket.  ---Piece of cake.
>
>Now for the number 4 (thats what I call it)   it is underneath the distributor
>close to engine.   I do it with standard combination wrench.  using the box
>end (9 pointer) -- a bit of feeling to get wrench on bolt --but not hard 
>to do.
>
>To remember which way to turn pump  ---- to advance turn pump against
>rotation.          Top of pumps turned towards engine.
>
>After all is done .. crack line nuts loose and retighten --to relieve 
>strain on lines.
>
> >From smoke to no smoke is often a matter of a pencil line move.
>
>Hagar.
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