[Vwdiesel] homemade valve compressor

[gary]

I know it doesn't really make any sense.
VW specifies right out of the book, use a 'new' valve when doing this
measurement.

VW guides can be pressed out w/o drilling (usually) Then they supposed
to be reamed to fit the valve. Some on this list have been able to NOT
ream and still work fine.

All I know (from past experience) that VW heads can run pretty loose.


-Gary


On Wed, 2004-11-24 at 18:42, Erik Lane wrote:
> Hmmm... that's not the way I remember it. I took a
> class in engine rebuilding at the local community
> college something like 10 or 12 years ago and we
> actually replaced guides on a few heads - but we had
> to use a special head machine that first drilled out
> the old ones. Then we pressed in the new ones and
> machined the top to the right shape. But my memory
> isn't very trustworthy, so I might be off.
> 
> But the valve slop tests that we did I remember always
> doing with the old valves. Seems it was the first
> thing we did right after removing the keepers and
> springs and before the valves came out of the head.
> But that wasn't on a VW diesel head, which I've never
> done anything on. If there was slop then the guide
> needed replacing for sure. Then you checked the valve
> stem. (Again, that's the way I remember it, but my
> memory isn't always the best.)
> 
> I'm shocked that you could move the valve around that
> much without losing oil. I guess your seals were VERY
> pliable. Good news for him - I hope it holds well
> enough to at least last him until better weather to
> work on it, and maybe it will last until a rebuild? At
> this point it sounds like it's definitely worth
> trying!
> 
> Erik
> 
> --- gary <gbangs at cfl.rr.com> wrote:
> 
> > That may well be true, but the valve slop test is
> > supposed to be done
> > with a 'new' valve in the guide.
> > 
> > Still, I don't see how valve seals could cause his
> > horrendous oil
> > problem.
> > 
> > I've had a Rabbit where I could literally move the
> > valve head a good
> > 3/32in side-to-side (old valve, old guide) and
> > didn't burn a drop of
> > oil.
> > 
> > Bart, while the VC is off, snake a wire down all
> > (four of them?) of the
> > oil drains to be sure they are clear.
> > 
> > 
> > -Gary 
> > 
> > On Wed, 2004-11-24 at 15:14, Erik Lane wrote:
> > > --- Bart Wineland <bwinelan at allegheny.edu> wrote:
> > > 
> > > First off, that looks like a good tool! Well done!
> > > (tho I don't have any experience having to pull
> > valves
> > > on these - I have taken a couple heads to be
> > rebuilt
> > > and let them do it.)
> > > 
> > > 
> > > > replaced. Tonight I should be able to finish up.
> > I
> > > > checked the valves for 
> > > > any lateral play in the guides and can feel the
> > > > slightest play in the 
> > > > exhaust valves but barely anything in the
> > intakes so
> > > > I am hoping the guides 
> > > > are ok.  
> > > 
> > > Unfortunately it sounds like your head needs
> > attention
> > > - those valve guides need replacing. The general
> > rule
> > > is if you can feel the slop by hand then it's over
> > the
> > > limits. So I doubt that the new seals will last
> > long -
> > > the valves just have too much play. At this point
> > that
> > > you've already gone to the trouble to make up the
> > tool
> > > and have most of them replaced I wouldn't blame
> > you to
> > > try it anyway. 
> > > 
> > > Sorry - I hate being the bearer of bad news.
> > > Erik
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 		
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> > 
> 
> 
> 
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