[Vwdiesel] homemade valve compressor

Erik Lane erikjlane at yahoo.com
Wed Nov 24 21:29:15 EST 2004


Hmmm.... never read the book on that one, since I
haven't rebuilt any. When I worked on the heads we had
all the fun tools so we just drilled. Was very fast
that way! (I was having a mental block and couldn't
think of the word reaming!) I'm surprised that people
have managed to use them without reaming - didn't know
they came from the factory that close to spec.

The ones I did took a fair bit of machining on the top
end of the guide for it to be shaped right for the
seal to fit. That might have been on GM 350 heads,
tho. I'm kinda fuzzy on details. I do remember the guy
saying that on VW heads you always always replace the
exhaust guides without even checking - they always
wore much more than the intakes, and it was worth the
little more to make sure that they were back to
perfect specs.

Really good to hear that they can be so sloppy and
still work so well!

Thanks for the learning!
Erik

--- gary <gbangs at cfl.rr.com> wrote:

> I know it doesn't really make any sense.
> VW specifies right out of the book, use a 'new'
> valve when doing this
> measurement.
> 
> VW guides can be pressed out w/o drilling (usually)
> Then they supposed
> to be reamed to fit the valve. Some on this list
> have been able to NOT
> ream and still work fine.
> 
> All I know (from past experience) that VW heads can
> run pretty loose.
> 
> 
> -Gary
> 
> 
> On Wed, 2004-11-24 at 18:42, Erik Lane wrote:
> > Hmmm... that's not the way I remember it. I took a
> > class in engine rebuilding at the local community
> > college something like 10 or 12 years ago and we
> > actually replaced guides on a few heads - but we
> had
> > to use a special head machine that first drilled
> out
> > the old ones. Then we pressed in the new ones and
> > machined the top to the right shape. But my memory
> > isn't very trustworthy, so I might be off.
> > 
> > But the valve slop tests that we did I remember
> always
> > doing with the old valves. Seems it was the first
> > thing we did right after removing the keepers and
> > springs and before the valves came out of the
> head.
> > But that wasn't on a VW diesel head, which I've
> never
> > done anything on. If there was slop then the guide
> > needed replacing for sure. Then you checked the
> valve
> > stem. (Again, that's the way I remember it, but my
> > memory isn't always the best.)
> > 
> > I'm shocked that you could move the valve around
> that
> > much without losing oil. I guess your seals were
> VERY
> > pliable. Good news for him - I hope it holds well
> > enough to at least last him until better weather
> to
> > work on it, and maybe it will last until a
> rebuild? At
> > this point it sounds like it's definitely worth
> > trying!
> > 
> > Erik
> > 
> > --- gary <gbangs at cfl.rr.com> wrote:
> > 
> > > That may well be true, but the valve slop test
> is
> > > supposed to be done
> > > with a 'new' valve in the guide.
> > > 
> > > Still, I don't see how valve seals could cause
> his
> > > horrendous oil
> > > problem.
> > > 
> > > I've had a Rabbit where I could literally move
> the
> > > valve head a good
> > > 3/32in side-to-side (old valve, old guide) and
> > > didn't burn a drop of
> > > oil.
> > > 
> > > Bart, while the VC is off, snake a wire down all
> > > (four of them?) of the
> > > oil drains to be sure they are clear.
> > > 
> > > 
> > > -Gary 
> > > 
> > > On Wed, 2004-11-24 at 15:14, Erik Lane wrote:
> > > > --- Bart Wineland <bwinelan at allegheny.edu>
> wrote:
> > > > 
> > > > First off, that looks like a good tool! Well
> done!
> > > > (tho I don't have any experience having to
> pull
> > > valves
> > > > on these - I have taken a couple heads to be
> > > rebuilt
> > > > and let them do it.)
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > > replaced. Tonight I should be able to finish
> up.
> > > I
> > > > > checked the valves for 
> > > > > any lateral play in the guides and can feel
> the
> > > > > slightest play in the 
> > > > > exhaust valves but barely anything in the
> > > intakes so
> > > > > I am hoping the guides 
> > > > > are ok.  
> > > > 
> > > > Unfortunately it sounds like your head needs
> > > attention
> > > > - those valve guides need replacing. The
> general
> > > rule
> > > > is if you can feel the slop by hand then it's
> over
> > > the
> > > > limits. So I doubt that the new seals will
> last
> > > long -
> > > > the valves just have too much play. At this
> point
> > > that
> > > > you've already gone to the trouble to make up
> the
> > > tool
> > > > and have most of them replaced I wouldn't
> blame
> > > you to
> > > > try it anyway. 
> > > > 
> > > > Sorry - I hate being the bearer of bad news.
> > > > Erik
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 		
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