[Vwdiesel] re-ring done, but no start

Bart Wineland bwinelan at allegheny.edu
Mon Oct 11 22:28:13 EDT 2004


I have been through the process about 8 times now, it is possible I have 
done it wrong 8 times. I have the big nylon plug out of the tranny to see 
my TDC mark that I have chalked good. I get it exact. Check my cam lobes 
against the picture in Bentley with the lobe closest to the timing belt at 
about 3 o'clock if you are standing at the fender looking right at it. My 
cam slot is flat at that point. I can see where it would be easy to be off 
180 here but it matches the picture in Bentley. I line the pump gear mark 
up with the mark on the bracket and it lines up the lock pin hole fine. I 
do have the regular pump gauge and following the process of screwing it in 
to the 3mm mark I turn the crank backwards until the needle stops moving, 
which isn't very far at all. Then I zero my gauge leaving a couple mm of 
preload. Then I forward rotate the crank again to TDC and read the 
scale.  I am now at 90. When I first checked it after re timing everything 
after cranking with the cam pulley slipping it was way advanced to 125.  I 
loosened the pump and had to pivot it backwards as far as it would go to 
get it to 90. I did that with the cold start all the way in but I saw what 
you are saying and there is still some travel left in the cold start lever 
to allow it go back even further.I think there is more travel in the lever 
on the pump than you could ever take up with just the operator cable inside 
the drivers compartment.  Are you saying the travel should start from the 
lever being fully pushed back?  Will a compression check tell me anything 
at this point about the valves?

thanks,

Bart

At 08:53 PM 10/11/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>   Is your pump 180 off?  That's easy to do.  If you bent any valves it won't
>crank over right (sound).  It'll sound more steady rather than the regular
>cranking/pulsing sound you're used to.  Double check your marks, TDC,
>cam slot parallel with #1 lobes uppish, groove on inner rim of pump
>pulley up, and cold start knob IN when you set the pump timing.
>   Make sure when the cold start knob is in that the cable is slack enough
>to allow the lever on the pump to go all the way seated.  Have someone
>crank while watching the clear fuel supply line for bubbles.  That was a
>majority of Milton's problem recently, I think.  It can take a minute or
>two's worth of cranking to clear the air and get it going sometimes.
>      Loren
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