[Vwdiesel] re-ring done, but no start

Tue Oct 12 02:39:27 EDT 2004

Yes, the cold start advance lever should be tightened to the cable with the
pump advance lever all the way down and the cable handle pushed in. Doing it
differently is wrong and you get bad timing values.

Use an air impact wrench to loosen the cam bolt with nothing else holding
the cam. One burp and it's loose, reinstall the bolt so it's loose a couple
of threads and give the cam side of the pulley a whack with a hammer and
punch through the little hole in the belt sheild tin that is there for this
purpose to get the pulley off.  The bolt is left in to not have the pulley
vacate completely. Use a bar with teo suitable bolts welded on to hold
things when retorqueing the cam bolt.

The cam lock plate is ONLY for holding the cam at tdc, not for anything
else. IIRC, one version of Bently states you are to use the camshaft locking
plate to hold the cam while loosening the sprocket bolt.  THIS IS INCORRECT,
and one instance where Bently is dead wrong. It may be okay to do so with
clean fresh  threads on a new motor, but not one that is old and oxidized.
Hey, it's right better than 99.9% of the time, so one error out of how many
books isn't bad at all. The lock slot will break, and make timing the thing
a real PITA, but it can be done with patience.

The pulley has no key because it is the slippy joint in the system. It
(sprocket) has to be loose when you install the belt, because you have no
hope of ever making belts EXACTLY the same length every time... so the cam
sprocket is allowed to move while the lock plate is holding the cam on tdc
when the belt tensioner takes up the final belt slack.. then and only then
is the cam sprocket given the final tightening.  It is a wedgemated fit,
made to be done clean and dry. Torqued to the proper value, give the
sprocket center a tap with a deadblow or lead hammer, and retorque.  It will
not move.  The keyway is most likely used to index the cam when grinding, or
the same blanks are used for gas and diesel... but most likely the cam
grinding fixture still indexes the lobes using the woodruff key.

Air can be a real bugger to purge if the pump emptied out.  Filling through
the banjo bolt is cool, but be prepared to crank lots and lots and lots.
Giving the starter a break to cool is necessary, patience a virtue. Be sure
the glow plugs are working too, and a wire isn't off or the gp fuse is
cracked.

If you hooched a valve, yeah, a compression test should tell you what you
want to know.

Good luck
-James

-----Original Message-----
From: vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com [mailto:vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com]On
Behalf Of Bart Wineland
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2004 8:24 PM
To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] re-ring done, but no start

I have been through the process about 8 times now, it is possible I have
done it wrong 8 times. I have the big nylon plug out of the tranny to see
my TDC mark that I have chalked good. I get it exact. Check my cam lobes
against the picture in Bentley with the lobe closest to the timing belt at
about 3 o'clock if you are standing at the fender looking right at it. My
cam slot is flat at that point. I can see where it would be easy to be off
180 here but it matches the picture in Bentley. I line the pump gear mark
up with the mark on the bracket and it lines up the lock pin hole fine. I
do have the regular pump gauge and following the process of screwing it in
to the 3mm mark I turn the crank backwards until the needle stops moving,
which isn't very far at all. Then I zero my gauge leaving a couple mm of
preload. Then I forward rotate the crank again to TDC and read the
scale.  I am now at 90. When I first checked it after re timing everything
after cranking with the cam pulley slipping it was way advanced to 125.  I
loosened the pump and had to pivot it backwards as far as it would go to
get it to 90. I did that with the cold start all the way in but I saw what
you are saying and there is still some travel left in the cold start lever
to allow it go back even further.I think there is more travel in the lever
on the pump than you could ever take up with just the operator cable inside
the drivers compartment.  Are you saying the travel should start from the
lever being fully pushed back?  Will a compression check tell me anything
at this point about the valves?

thanks,

Bart

At 08:53 PM 10/11/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>   Is your pump 180 off?  That's easy to do.  If you bent any valves it
won't
>crank over right (sound).  It'll sound more steady rather than the regular
>cranking/pulsing sound you're used to.  Double check your marks, TDC,
>cam slot parallel with #1 lobes uppish, groove on inner rim of pump
>pulley up, and cold start knob IN when you set the pump timing.
>   Make sure when the cold start knob is in that the cable is slack enough
>to allow the lever on the pump to go all the way seated.  Have someone
>crank while watching the clear fuel supply line for bubbles.  That was a
>majority of Milton's problem recently, I think.  It can take a minute or
>two's worth of cranking to clear the air and get it going sometimes.
>      Loren
>_______________________________________________
>Vwdiesel mailing list
>Vwdiesel at vwfans.com
>http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel

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