[Vwdiesel] re-ring done, but no start, update

Bart Wineland bwinelan at allegheny.edu
Thu Oct 14 09:47:05 EDT 2004



Well using every trick offered me (thanks to all) my car started last night 
but barely runs.  I fought with the timing  belt several times before I 
could get all 3 points where they are supposed to be. Loren's clue about 
the taper in the cam for the pulley "eating up" the slight slack in the 
belt helped. I'll try Erik's method next time. What I eventually found 
worked the easiest for me was to put the belt on the pump, remove the nut 
on the tensioner so it can be slid out close to the edge of the mounting 
bolt and completely remove the cam pulley. I'd the put the pulley in the 
end of the loop of the belt and slide the pulley back on the cam shaft 
taper.  The drawback was when I tightened the pulley down if the belt was 
not exactly where it was supposed to be it would pull the crank a notch or 
so off from the cam and pump. After a few tries I got it all where they 
were supposed to be. I learned from Hagar and James to just snug the cam 
bolt down with the lockplate in place and then adjust the belt 
tension.  From there if I remove the pump pin and cam lock and put the car 
in gear I can actually torque the cam bolt down (40 ft. lbs. which is a 
little more than called for but I'm paranoid now) with just the engine 
naturally holding it.  I used my gauge then to run through the timing setup 
and the pump was way retarded (around .060). I loosened the injection lines 
so the pump could rotate back enough to get me to .090.  I used the air 
purge tips also and am sure I was having some problems there so those tips 
all helped.  Put the key to it and it starts but hardly runs. I still 
question my timing results. Sometimes after zeroing the gauge at TDC and 
turning the crank backwards until the needle stops moving is maybe 45 
degrees of travel on the crank and other times it takes more crank travel 
to get the needle to stop.  I would think that should be consistent if I 
was doing it right.  Quit last night and hope to run through it again 
tonight.  This is interesting but I've had a gut full for now and really 
hope it will drive again :) Still hoping I didn't really hurt something 
during "the incident" when the cam gear first slipped.

thanks again,

Bart




At 12:39 AM 10/12/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>Yes, the cold start advance lever should be tightened to the cable with the
>pump advance lever all the way down and the cable handle pushed in. Doing it
>differently is wrong and you get bad timing values.
>
>Use an air impact wrench to loosen the cam bolt with nothing else holding
>the cam. One burp and it's loose, reinstall the bolt so it's loose a couple
>of threads and give the cam side of the pulley a whack with a hammer and
>punch through the little hole in the belt sheild tin that is there for this
>purpose to get the pulley off.  The bolt is left in to not have the pulley
>vacate completely. Use a bar with teo suitable bolts welded on to hold
>things when retorqueing the cam bolt.
>
>The cam lock plate is ONLY for holding the cam at tdc, not for anything
>else. IIRC, one version of Bently states you are to use the camshaft locking
>plate to hold the cam while loosening the sprocket bolt.  THIS IS INCORRECT,
>and one instance where Bently is dead wrong. It may be okay to do so with
>clean fresh  threads on a new motor, but not one that is old and oxidized.
>Hey, it's right better than 99.9% of the time, so one error out of how many
>books isn't bad at all. The lock slot will break, and make timing the thing
>a real PITA, but it can be done with patience.
>
>The pulley has no key because it is the slippy joint in the system. It
>(sprocket) has to be loose when you install the belt, because you have no
>hope of ever making belts EXACTLY the same length every time... so the cam
>sprocket is allowed to move while the lock plate is holding the cam on tdc
>when the belt tensioner takes up the final belt slack.. then and only then
>is the cam sprocket given the final tightening.  It is a wedgemated fit,
>made to be done clean and dry. Torqued to the proper value, give the
>sprocket center a tap with a deadblow or lead hammer, and retorque.  It will
>not move.  The keyway is most likely used to index the cam when grinding, or
>the same blanks are used for gas and diesel... but most likely the cam
>grinding fixture still indexes the lobes using the woodruff key.
>
>Air can be a real bugger to purge if the pump emptied out.  Filling through
>the banjo bolt is cool, but be prepared to crank lots and lots and lots.
>Giving the starter a break to cool is necessary, patience a virtue. Be sure
>the glow plugs are working too, and a wire isn't off or the gp fuse is
>cracked.
>
>If you hooched a valve, yeah, a compression test should tell you what you
>want to know.
>
>Good luck
>-James






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