[Vwdiesel] Rabbit droppings # 141 --- ( &
Val Christian
val at swamps.roc.ny.us
Mon Jan 17 10:45:14 EST 2005
Hagar,
Diodes. Si diodes are cheap, and 20 amp or 50 amp diodes are readily
available at the local electronics junk dealer for $0.25 in single
quantities. One or two diodes works great for dimming DRL. Halogen
bulbs shouldn't be run too cool, however.
Fuses. With all my Rabbits, I've had the glow plug fuse go on
every single one, as near as I can remember. The zinc gets soft,
and eventually the necked part erodes. Again, to my knowledge and
recall, I've never had a shorted busbar or glow plug. Not to say
that it couldn't or wouldn't happen.
My Ford tractor has glowplugs, and since it sits outside all the time,
they get used allot. Especially when it's cold outside. I have
probably 2600 hours on the engine, and never replaced a glow plug.
As near as I can tell, without close exam, they are all working OK.
Differences? As near as I can tell: 1. They are operated manually
and only work for pre-glow, with a spring loaded momentary contact
ignition switch. The indicator for them is a loop of nichrome
wire, which "glows" through a 6 mm apeture. In the winter, it melts
snow, in the cold rain, the shield around it steams, in daylight, it's
nearly impossible to read. The result is that frequently I underglow.
The engine is a three banger, so I'd expect that if a plug failed, I
would know it. The point of all this is that it's a manual system.
When I had the Rabbit with the fog light switch activating the glow
plug relay, I never went through glow plugs, until the car started
ingesting crankcase oil pooled in the intake manifold. My experience
is that manual glow plug systems (at least on VWs) end up being
more reliable than automatic systems.
Ammeters. Why not just outfit each VW with two meters. One to
monitor charge/discharge of the battery, excepting the starter load.
The other to act as a loadmeter, and show the power output of the
altenator. With this change in place, many of our varied current
monitoring problems would be easy. All the time.
Val
ps: Poor man's blockheater idea...run glowplugs at 6volts or 8 volts,
overnight, for that warm engine start in the morning. A DPDT
switch/relay on the GP line, and a higher current, low voltage
source to the GP curcuit, when "plugged in". A 4 amp wall wart
14 Vdc supply could keep the car battery all topped off for that
"rapid start" in the morning. Who needs a block heater, with all
that messy installation, and fear of coolant leaks, when you
can use _Glow-Plug-Glow_(tm).
pps: I'll stick an old glowplug in a old cylinder head in the garage tonight,
and connect a 6 volt battery charger to it. It should be good and cold
tonight (0F), so I can run out at midnight, and check the cyl head
temp with a passsive IR pyrometer. That will not begin to estimate
the heat transfer to the engine block, but it will give some idea as
to the possible effectiveness of such an approach. And if the
glow plug has burned out in the morning, it will start to hint at
the feasibility of the idea. (Hopefully I get the driveway clear
early enough in the evening to get this done.)
>
> If I ever finish my investigations about why the plugs go south.
> According to Val Christian --- it will be posted under Glowplugs.
>
> Bying a Rabbit ? if it is 10 F or below now is the time -- Selling a
> Rabbit ? July 80 F or better ---perfect.
>
> I am talking about VW Rabbit Diesels 1977 to 1984 ---1.5L NA =
> 1.6L NA and 1.6 Turbu.
>
> If you have no problems starting ? at 10F soaked for 24 hours no =
> blockheat ?
>
> no need to read on. .. You got the picture . In this forum we =
> posted many many
> tricks to get her going.
>
> # 1. Make sure all 4 plugs are glowing. -----Go to Canadian Tire and =
> get a 34-0114-0
> Ammeter 60 -0- 60 6.99 dollars Canadian. IMHO it is one fine =
> looking
> instrument ---with mounting hardware and kightbulb.7 or 8 nuts =
> perfect for plugs.
>
> Mount two 12 inch pieces of # 10 flexible wire. No need to =
> disconnect
> anything. . One end to glowbuss one to positive on battery -- and =
> just read
> it like it was a Voltmeter. In a snowdrift ? --I would anytime.
>
> Equus Products Inc CA 92708. Same as my Dashboard Digital.
>
> The Fuse is mounted on firewall in a black block 1.6 X 2.0 inch . =
> cover on fuse comes off
> really easy--just pull no tools needed.
>
> The fuse is a flat strip of foil 10 thou Inch (US garbage) thick =
> by 235 .35 wide=20
> by 1.7 inch plus 400 Thou long..
>
> I sit her with 5 brand new fuses clearly stamped 50 A. Normal =
> fuses of that type
> is Zinc melting point 419.50 C. Aluminium 660.32 C.
>
> I have dissected all and I mean ALL the electrics on a 1980 VW =
> Rabbits ----and let me tell you if you drive with a junper in place of =
> a 50 cents Canadian fuse link ---- Not a good idea . ----- The =
> jumper like Bart Wineland made is superb ----use say 10 thou
> Aluminium to get home. (To get a proper fuse).
>
> The VW fuse will not carry 50 Amps for any lenght of time ---my guess? =
> less than an hour.
>
> IMPORTANT : Find reason before jumpering,.
>
> READ my lips ---after glow on my Turbo is being removed PERIOD . At =
> 18 dollars Canadian?
> As soon a alternator kicks in the voltage on plugs are too high for =
> my liking.
> For Afterglow ----11 Volts is not bad..
>
> If Val Christian is correct that heatters are like Lightbulbs =
> Westinghouse is my source,
>
>
> If plug is %100 volts Watts are 100% Life 100%.
> %108 volts Watts are 112% Life 50%
>
> % 92 volts Watts are 88 Life 310%.
>
> That should tell you that --- reducing voltage is a GOOD Idea. =
>
>
> Best way ? DIODES silicon. type. expensive but not for me ( =
> 20 liter bucket
> of dumpster diodes) One sitting on my postal scale ---250 gr. # =
> 18840100 8031.
>
> Mark Shepherd what did the Diodes set you back ---let us know =
> numbers.
>
> Today is sunday 16 jan 2005 and the half sassed Viking is up to his =
> ass in white syuff.
>
>
> Hagar.
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