Fw: [Vwdiesel] Hillbilly Tuning

[gary]

On the NA diesels, one bolt needs to have the cover off.

If you line up the engine at TDC, and the pump sprocket so that the
notch is more or less lined up with the  top centerline of the pump
proper, the holes in the sprocket line up with the mounting bolts.

The forth is back by the pump head, accessible anytime.

The max fuel 'housing'? That is a locknut for the max fuel screw. AND
yes, it takes a little 'english' when setting and tightening. I always
move mine in 1/8 turn(45* rotation) increments. It doesn't need to be
really tight. I hold my screw with a slotted screwdriver and just snug
the locknut. You do this a couple of times and you get the hang of it. 

Though I suppose this procedure could be used on a TD engine, like Hagar
with his high  mileage champ. I would be leery to use this procedure
when tuning for max power. IMHO it is better suited for the NA engine. 

-Gary

  


On Fri, 2005-03-18 at 16:33 -0800, Gerry Wolfe wrote:
> A dumb question from someone who hasn't ever done a static timing (lacking
> measuring tools & a place to do it)...
> 
> Does the timing belt cover need to be removed to do this procedure?  i.e.
> are the "3 of 4 mounting bolts" accessable?
> 
> advTHANKSance, g.
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "gary" <gbangs at cfl.rr.com>
> To: "David Cook" <vwdieselbunny at yahoo.com>
> Cc: "diesel list" <vwdiesel at vwfans.com>
> Sent: Friday, March 18, 2005 15:55
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Hillbilly Tuning
> 
> 
> > Ahhh, hillbilly tuning...
> >
> > Here goes...
> > -Hot engine
> > -Cold start knob all the way out
> > -inj pump - 3 of 4 mounting bolts loose, leave the one at the 2:00
> > position snug.
> > -start engine(idle)
> > -loosen just enough to be able to rotate the pump.
> > -roll pump (top towards engine) this advances timing. You will hear the
> > engine speed up. At some point the engine will start to slow down or
> > stumble. Stop, go back to that max point.
> > -Snug a mounting bolt.
> > -Stop engine.
> > -Make a reference mark on the mounting flange and the pump face.
> > -Mark a mark 2mm in the retarded direction(as in rolling the pump
> > forward).
> > -Move the pump to that new mark.
> > -Tighten everything up.
> > -in turn, loosen and re-tighten all of the injector pipes on the pump
> > side.
> > -Push in the cold start knob.
> >
> > Done!
> >
> > If you go back and measure injection timing, you will find the timing to
> > be in the 1.05mm range. Some get 1.07, others 1.03, YMMV.
> >
> > You can forgo all of the above and just statically set the timing to
> > 1.05mm and be done with it.
> >
> > I have done this to my 1980 PU and boy what a difference! Why didn't I
> > know about this years ago with my two other Rabbits?
> >
> > For fueling, I set mine so that I get just a wisp of gray haze smoke at
> > full boogey in 3rd gear.
> >
> >
> > -Gary
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Fri, 2005-03-18 at 14:56 -0800, David Cook wrote:
> > > I keep seeing references to HillBilly tuning, but
> > > haven't seen anything about how to actually DO it!  I
> > > did a google search, but the best it turned up was
> > > more references...
> > >
> > > What I'm wondering is:
> > > 1)  Can/will this improve effeciency in my 1.6 NA
> > > diesel engine?  (No Turbo!)
> > >
> > > 2)  How the heck do I do it!?!
> > >
> > > I'm thinking of taking the Cabriolet on a 1300 mile
> > > trip next week, so I'd like to try that tuning.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > David
> > >
> > > David Cook
> > > Red '86 Cabriolet Diesel Powered
> > > Red '90 g60 Corrado
> > > Brown and White '78 Westy Campmobile "Bear"
> > > and others in various states of disrepair
> > > Pictures here: community.webshots.com/user/superdave5599
> > >
> > >
> > >
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