[Vwdiesel] Injection Pump talk ---- ( for the pump gang and all )

David Cook vwdieselbunny at yahoo.com
Wed Mar 23 16:03:40 EST 2005


Here's an idea derived from when I rebuilt my old
beetle's carburator...

For all the little tiny pump parts, to keep them
straight and clean, use some ice cube trays.

I grabbed a couple old trays, and set them on pieces
of paper.  On the paper, next to each "cube" I wrote
what the part was, etc.

When it came time to put it back together, I just had
to reverse through the cube trays for my parts, as the
order I had taken them off in was preserved.

David

--- Shawn Wright <swright at zuiko.sls.bc.ca> wrote:
> On 20 Mar 2005 at 17:22, H .  Hagar.
> <h_hagar at prcn.org> wrote:
> 
> > I am trying to help Shawn Wright in  
> Shawn--i--gan  Lake  do his pump.
> 
> Thanks, I'll need the help! :-)
>  
> > First be careful take it slow.----if you are stuck
> just phone me.   ----parts are available
> > from Valley Injection  ---you may twist the arm of
> Island Injection.
> 
> There's also a Bosch shop in Salmon Arm, where I'm
> going this week, so I might 
> drop in there while I'm killing time at the
> inlaws... they had a VW symbol on their sign, 
> which is good...
>  
> > I shall tell you some tests to run before taking
> anything apart.      In any case get
> > an impact screwdriver  -----a faily good one cost 
> about   16.00 Dollars Canadian.
> 
> Is this air driven, or mechanical? I'm not sure I've
> seen one of these. I assume this is 
> for breaking loose small threadlocked screws?
> 
> > If you can get hold of a can of Diesel Purge ---it
> works pretty good.   For cleaning interior
> > of pump.  There may be better stuff.    Anyway get
> a new stub shaft assembly for
> > cold shaft ---very cheap. Two screws and nothing
> is connected to it inside pump.
> 
> Even if the cold start shaft isn't leaking? Is this
> just preventative maintenance for the 
> eventual leak, or is there some other reason? I've
> never had a leaky pump yet, so I 
> don't really know.
> 
> > It comes with two new Orings.   Do the pump step
> by step.    And my suggestion is do not hot
> > tank block if it is a caustic tank----like a
> boilout tank. A good chemical steamcleaning will do.
> 
> Why do you say this? Is it too hard on the metal?
> I've heard of coolant passages 
> getting thin on older blocks.
> 
> > Is the pump a four cylinder ?.    Keep in mind
> that Governor shaft and locknut  ---
> > IS LEFT HAND thread.
> 
> Yes, it's from an '86 TD, so should be same as your
> Bunny Bondo.
> 
> > All the tools needed for taking a pump apart are
> at your fingertips.  BUT do not do it
> > just yet.        BUT get a pack of ParoWax  and
> soon you will need som locktite.
> 
> I'll be up to my eyeballs in parts soon, so I'll
> just be in learning mode for the pump 
> stuff until the engine rebuild is done. But my goal
> is to have it all ready for the May 
> long weekend. (rebuild, plus swap of 2.1 wbx & 4
> speed with 1.6TD & 5 speed into 
> '88 Westy). I suppose I could run the engine with an
> NA pump for a while if I decide I 
> need to rebuild the TD pump though...
> 
> Shawn Wright
> http://zuiko.sls.bc.ca/~swright
> '85 Jetta TD (retired)
> '85 Jetta D 
> '88 Westy 2.1L
> '82 Diesel Westy
> 
> 
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> 

David Cook
Red '86 Cabriolet Diesel Powered
Red '90 g60 Corrado 
Brown and White '78 Westy Campmobile "Bear"
and others in various states of disrepair
Pictures here: community.webshots.com/user/superdave5599


		
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