[Vwdiesel] New Car, New to Turbos and of course New Question --Getting Closer

[a f]

Shawn-
 
I was afraid of this..."The whole job could be made a lot easier if you plan to support the engine from 
above first, then just remove the right engine mount. If you are replacing the line, you 
will need to do this anyway, so do it first."
 
There is no way to slip the return line out of the motor mount once it disconnected from both ends? Knew it couldn't be that easy.
 
Also, judging from what I described does it sound like it is the return line leaking. Is the oil stain on the turbo a normal sight (170,000 mi. car) or does this lead you to believe that the turbo/turbo return line coupler is leaky? 
 
Thanks 
Andrew

Shawn Wright <swright at zuiko.sls.bc.ca> wrote:
On 6 May 2005 at 21:08, a f wrote:

> Thanks to everyone giving advice...
> 
> >>From what I can tell it looks like this line is leaking. It is tough to really
> >>see what is going on because of the line is located within the motor mount and
> >>my inability to really see the connection to the turbo itself. I will explain
> >>what I do see: There is enough oil leaking that the underside of the car is
> >>pretty well marked with oil as far back as rear seat/trunk area (it is
> >>concentrated on the passenger side)--I think i lost about 3/4 qt. during the
> >>100 mi. I drove it. There is oil all over the bottom of the pan (which is what
> >>made me think originally the pan was leaking--along with PO putting a nice
> >>dent in the pan). The flex part of return line itself is coated in oil and
> >>that area of the motor mount is pretty well coated. The metal (fixed) part of
> >>the return line which makes its way through the motor mount and to the turbo
> >>seems to be dry. The turbo itself is stained around the area of the return
> >>line coupling but is not coated or drenched like the flex line. That i
> s why I
> am thinking its just the flex line. Does this sound logical? I guess it could
> be leaking at the fixed part of the return line coupling to the turbo. Either
> way I need to remove the return line. right?
> 
> As for removing the return line --I was wondering if anyone had some suggestions
> for removing the coupling off the pan? It seems to be real tight and hard to
> get at since the nut is greater than 19 mm. The closeness to the pan makes an
> adjustable wrench not very efficient. Do I need to take the pan off? Get larger
> open end wrench (stubby)? 

It is a tough one, a nearly impossible to remove with a large crescent wrench (btdt...). 
It's a 27mm size, and about the only other thing using that size on a VW (that I know 
of) are the injectors, and they need a deep socket, not a wrench. So it's your call - 
you could buy a 27mm (or 1 1/16" is the same size) wrench you'll probably never 
use anywhere else, or by a shorty crescent wrench, or find a loan-a-tool place that 
has one.

If you have any doubts about the pan also leaking, you might as well pull it while 
you're there. Getting the pan bolts at the flywheel end are tricky - you may need a 
wobble head 1/4" drive extension. 

> I haven't even started to think about the nut off the turbo yet.

It is most likely 2 bolts holding the flange to the turbo bearing housing - the pipe is 
welded to the flange. Aside from being difficult to reach back there, it's not too bad. 

The whole job could be made a lot easier if you plan to support the engine from 
above first, then just remove the right engine mount. If you are replacing the line, you 
will need to do this anyway, so do it first. I built a support from a length of 2x4 and 
two pieces of 2x4 on each end that rest on the inner fender lip where the bolts are. 
Then use strong rope or chain to hold engine, jack up, remove mount, raise a bit 
more, tighten chain/rope, then carefully lower and check it is secure. 

Shawn Wright
http://zuiko.sls.bc.ca/~swright
'85 Jetta D 
'88 Westy 2.1L, soon to be 1.6TD 5 speed
(see progress at http://members.shaw.ca/vwdiesels)
'82 Diesel Westy


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