[Vwdiesel] New Car, New to Turbos and of course New Question --Getting Closer

Sat May 7 10:21:08 EDT 2005

Having to lift the whole engine and remove a motor mount sounds like more
anally retentive German engineering that I see many examples of in my early
experience with these cars.  Is it possible to forget about the captive oil
line in the motor mount, just snip the pieces off as close as you can and
run a new custom line entirely outside of the motor mount?  There are ways
to outsmart German design cleverness.

I know folks here have a love affair with the VW so I don't want to hurt
anyone's felings with my remarks.  I have started owning and playing with
these cars and engines now as well so I also am developing a relationship
with them.  I'm not picking on German design because I need a can to kick.
I call things like I see them.  I had a few German made theater Xenon short
arc lamp power supplies and had to do repairs on them occasionally.  They
had all the wires neatly bundled together with not a mm to spare between
components.  If the wire broke there was no spare length to save you.
Another example of brilliant design!  NOT.

Rob

----- Original Message -----
From: "a f" <volkswagendiesel at yahoo.com>
To: "Shawn Wright" <swright at zuiko.sls.bc.ca>; <vwdiesel at vwfans.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 07, 2005 1:07 AM
Subject: RE: [Vwdiesel] New Car,New to Turbos and of course New
Question --Getting Closer

> Shawn-
>
> I was afraid of this..."The whole job could be made a lot easier if you
plan to support the engine from
> above first, then just remove the right engine mount. If you are replacing
the line, you
> will need to do this anyway, so do it first."
>
> There is no way to slip the return line out of the motor mount once it
disconnected from both ends? Knew it couldn't be that easy.
>
> Also, judging from what I described does it sound like it is the return
line leaking. Is the oil stain on the turbo a normal sight (170,000 mi. car)
or does this lead you to believe that the turbo/turbo return line coupler is
leaky?
>
> Thanks
> Andrew
>
> Shawn Wright <swright at zuiko.sls.bc.ca> wrote:
> On 6 May 2005 at 21:08, a f wrote:
>
> > Thanks to everyone giving advice...
> >
> > >>From what I can tell it looks like this line is leaking. It is tough
to really
> > >>see what is going on because of the line is located within the motor
mount and
> > >>my inability to really see the connection to the turbo itself. I will
explain
> > >>what I do see: There is enough oil leaking that the underside of the
car is
> > >>pretty well marked with oil as far back as rear seat/trunk area (it is
> > >>concentrated on the passenger side)--I think i lost about 3/4 qt.
during the
> > >>100 mi. I drove it. There is oil all over the bottom of the pan (which
is what
> > >>made me think originally the pan was leaking--along with PO putting a
nice
> > >>dent in the pan). The flex part of return line itself is coated in oil
and
> > >>that area of the motor mount is pretty well coated. The metal (fixed)
part of
> > >>the return line which makes its way through the motor mount and to the
turbo
> > >>seems to be dry. The turbo itself is stained around the area of the
return
> > >>line coupling but is not coated or drenched like the flex line. That i
> > s why I
> > am thinking its just the flex line. Does this sound logical? I guess it
could
> > be leaking at the fixed part of the return line coupling to the turbo.
Either
> > way I need to remove the return line. right?
> >
> > As for removing the return line --I was wondering if anyone had some
suggestions
> > for removing the coupling off the pan? It seems to be real tight and
hard to
> > get at since the nut is greater than 19 mm. The closeness to the pan
makes an
> > adjustable wrench not very efficient. Do I need to take the pan off? Get
larger
> > open end wrench (stubby)?
>
> It is a tough one, a nearly impossible to remove with a large crescent
wrench (btdt...).
> It's a 27mm size, and about the only other thing using that size on a VW
(that I know
> of) are the injectors, and they need a deep socket, not a wrench. So it's
your call -
> you could buy a 27mm (or 1 1/16" is the same size) wrench you'll probably
never
> use anywhere else, or by a shorty crescent wrench, or find a loan-a-tool
place that
> has one.
>
> If you have any doubts about the pan also leaking, you might as well pull
it while
> you're there. Getting the pan bolts at the flywheel end are tricky - you
may need a
> wobble head 1/4" drive extension.
>
> > I haven't even started to think about the nut off the turbo yet.
>
> It is most likely 2 bolts holding the flange to the turbo bearing
housing - the pipe is
> welded to the flange. Aside from being difficult to reach back there, it's
not too bad.
>
> The whole job could be made a lot easier if you plan to support the engine
from
> above first, then just remove the right engine mount. If you are replacing
the line, you
> will need to do this anyway, so do it first. I built a support from a
length of 2x4 and
> two pieces of 2x4 on each end that rest on the inner fender lip where the
bolts are.
> Then use strong rope or chain to hold engine, jack up, remove mount, raise
a bit
> more, tighten chain/rope, then carefully lower and check it is secure.
>
> Shawn Wright
> http://zuiko.sls.bc.ca/~swright
> '85 Jetta D
> '88 Westy 2.1L, soon to be 1.6TD 5 speed
> (see progress at http://members.shaw.ca/vwdiesels)
> '82 Diesel Westy
>
>
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