[Vwdiesel] Pump timing/Reading a dial indicator

[Tim Hicks]

Hey Mark,
   
  That is the actual gauge Im using. If you zero the large gauge the small gauge is right on the zero mark. If you look closely you will see the small gauge is slightly below the zero mark.
   
  Can the injection pump be 180 degrees off. How many rotations does the pump have before it goes to the start position. Do you understand what I am asking? If it takes one cycle to get back to the start then it cant be 180 deggrees off, but if it takes two rotations it can. Thanks
   
  Tim Hicks

Mark Shepherd <mark at shepher.fsnet.co.uk> wrote:
  Hi Tim
Thanks for the pic of the gauge. BUT...
Is this a picture of your actual gauge or a generic one?
If it is your personal one then what it is telling me is that the 2 scales
don't tally... Small gauge is showing 0 and accurate gauge is showing 0.4/2
or 0.2mm Is the scale adjustable relative to the needle or is it just those
two outer pointers?
Mark
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tim Hicks" 
To: 
Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2005 12:52 AM
Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Pump timing/Reading a dial indicator


> Here is the gauge. http://emailastro.us/page7.htm Is it possible the
pump could be out 180 degrees. I remember someone say something about
something could be 180 degrees off. I know my cam is not 180 degrees out.
The manual show a picture and it is correct. I know if I have a 2mm preload
as the smaller gauge will tell me.
>
> Tim Hicks
>
> Mark Shepherd wrote:
> What you say sounds right for the gauge ... except how do you know you
have
> exactly 2mm preset for the small gauge to be accurate Does you gauge
> default to zero on the small gauge accurately.? Is it possible that you
are
> short of one revolution on the main dial? Does your cam need relocking in
> correct position?
> Mark
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Tim Hicks"
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, November 29, 2005 9:51 PM
> Subject: [Vwdiesel] Pump timing/Reading a dial indicator
>
>
> > I changed the timing belt on my Volvo/ VW 2.4L diesel and have been
> trying to set the injection timing. I must be doing something wrong
because
> it will not run.
> >
> > I do know the "basic timing" is correct, that is the crankshaft and the
> camshaft are in the correct position according to my manuals. That's
fairly
> simple, so it must be the injection timing. I drove this car into my
garage
> so it did run prior.
> >
> > I did notice that when I was placing the cam locking plate to lock the
> cam I had to turn it clockwise about an inch, inch and a quarter in order
> to lock the cam in the correct position. I thought to my self the timing
> must be off.
> >
> > I have followed my Volvo Factory manual step by step a hundred times
> and it still doesn't run. The only thing I can think of is I am not
reading
> the dial indicator correctly. By looking at the gauge is seems to be a no
> brainer.
> >
> > The gauge is a factory gauge so it is the correct one. It reads both
> metric and standard. The black marks and numbers are metric and those are
> the ones I have been using. It has a 5mm measuring range. The space
between
> the marks equals 0.01mm
> >
> > The marks go from zero clockwise one full rotation would be 0.50
> > 0.05, 0.10, 0.15, 0.20, 0.25, 0.30, 0.35, 0.40, 0.45, 0.50
> >
> > To go beyond 0.50 you keep counting on the second rotation.
> >
> > 0.05=0.55, 0.10=0.60, 0.15=0.65, 0.20=0.70, 0.25=0.75, 0.30=0.80. 0.80
> is where I need to be. I can tell I'm on the second rotation by the
smaller
> gauge which goes from
> > 1mm to 5mm. I have to set it on a 2mm preload when I am on the second
> rotation the needle will read between the 2 and the 3.
> >
> > Is this correct? I have never used one before. Can anyone think of what
> I might be doing wrong? I hate to have it towed to the dealer. I have
> worked on cars since I was a teenager and have always been successful in
my
> repairs; it kills me to have it towed to a repair shop.
> >
> > Tim Hicks
> >
> >
> >
> >
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> >
> >
> >
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