[Vwdiesel] Limping Home: Front Wheel Bearings

[slatersfb@aol.com]

To save the cost of realignment, I remove entire strut with bearing housing attached. A bit more awkward when setting up for press though.
 
Cheap Bob in the Entire State
 
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Val Christian <val at mongobird.com>
To: H . Hagar. <h_hagar at prcn.org>; vwdiesel at vwfans.com
Sent: Mon, 12 Sep 2005 13:10:29 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Limping Home: Front Wheel Bearings


Hagar,

I have allot of experience with wheel bearings on Rabbits.

1. Front bearings give lots of notice.  

2. Bearing wear is (load)*( (speed)**2), so if it gets real bad,
slow down.

3. Minimize side load.  (Slow down on curves?)

4. Look for heat (passive IR thermometer).  If it starts kicking up,
then stop.

5. Avoid potholes.  A marginal bearing starts fracturing when pothole
loads happen.

6. Carry a spare bearing ($30 or so) with you, or have someone
on call who can run you one if you really need it.

7. Jack front up, and see how much play you have.  If the play is small,
you probably have a little time (miles).  Take a jack with you.
You can monitor progress.

Other notes: One car went through left front bearings every 30K. 
Once I changed the spindle (after about 7 bearings), the recurring 
problem went away. Bearings fail for various causes, not only load
and age.     Also, a spindle pull, and bearing press takes about 
2 hours, with me doing it, in my home shop.  Press and torch at hand.
Precool bearing prior to pressing into spindle.  Also, if inner 
race is in hub flange, and doesn't want to press of easily, don't
even consider cutting/grinding.  Use acetylene torch.  Cleaner job,
and takes about three minutes total extraction time.  Also, emery
paper hub flange and spindle casting to remove the "peaks".  Light
oil lube OK, do not use neverseeze (metal particles in NZ may contaminate
bearing).  Also, consider 2' square with shims (blocks of wood), to
jig up and duplicate camber angle of wheel after spindle re-insertion
onto strut and ball joint.  Then get a laser 4 wheel alignment.  If
unable, set camber to 0 degrees, and toe-in to 0.  A Torpedo
level, with magnetic base will help set the camber.  Light chain,
or even string will set toe-in.  I've also laid straight 12' 2x4s
against the front wheels to judge how the toe-in looks.  On a Rabbit
visually straight is VERY close to really straight.  Driving on a 
dirt or snow covered road can help verify alignment, also.


Next time I have a front bearing to do, I'm going to try using the screw
from a spring compresser, and a set of large sockets, and shims, to 
press the bearing out of the spindle while on the car.  There are
kits to do this, but they cost, and I suspect that I can jury rig a
tool to accomplish it.  Heating the spindle casting may help.

Hope this is of help.

Val


















> 
> I ran in to two different systems --during my Rabbit adventures ---NOTHING I 
ever seen--in
> 73 years--------works better than the two spring clip style.
> 
> I just looked at the High Flow  manifold --that I promised Loren ---looks fine 
to me .
> If I get to -Issaquah
>   tomorrow  ---I shall leave it at a service station  close to you Loren 
---use it or pass
> it on to a needy - person.
> 
> I have no passport ---so I am going to Bullshit my way across the border.    
-- Using my
> NATO credentials.
> 
> I shall let you all know how that works out ---good for a laugh say I.
> 
> I heard that Louanne had a heart attack last Tuesday morning and died
> almost instantly.  The service for her will be in Issaquah this Tuesday,
> September 13 at 12:00 at the home of a friend of Louanne.
> 
> If Hagar does not get there ?  ---it is for a good reason.
> 
> 
> Hagar.
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> 

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