[Vwdiesel] Fuel 101 --- ( Feed your Rabbit good food ) 2006.

[dieseltdi at verizon.net]

Washing isn't really necessary, in fact it reduces the amount of  
biodiesel you have and extends the production time by many days.  I  
have over 80000 miles on my Jetta TDI using unwashed biodiesel with  
absolutely no problems.  If you do your calculations right, you  
should have nothing left in your biodiesel except biodiesel and a bit  
of unreacted methanol which is useful to remove water from your  
tank.  Besides, I work very hard not to have any water in my veggie  
oil before I convert it to biodiesel, why on earth would I want to  
add water in to it and mess it up.  I have tried washing a couple of  
times and all I have gotten is a decrease of about 15% in usable  
biodiesel and a greasy mess of mixed biodiesel and water.  The Veggie  
Van people have many thousands of miles on their vehicles with  
unwashed biodiesel.  Now if you are trying to meet ASTM standards  
then you will have to wash.  The whole point of home biodiesel  
production is how easy it is to make.  Additions  of sulfuric acid or  
water washes just makes it too complicated and dangerous.  hayden

On Jan 7, 2006, at 6:34 PM, jon wrote:

>
>> right and finish it! Use pure chemicals (sulfuric acid, sodium lye  
>> and methanol) and
>> measure them accurately, and follow the instructions carefully
>
> Yes! And finishing it means WASHING the Biodiesel. Yup, washing it  
> with
> water several times. You'd be surprised what the water looks like  
> after
> the first wash! You don't want that in your engine.
>
> Properly made, clean Biodiesel can actually clean crud out of your  
> engine,
> fuel system, and tank. Many people clog filters when they start  
> running
> B100.
>
> Jon
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2004 Passat TDI GLS, 2.0l, 8 valve, 134 HP, 247 lb/ft of torque  
(making 150 hp with Diesel Power Tuning Box), Blue Graphite,  
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1998 Jetta TDI (Wetterauer Chipset, 2 1/2" exhaust, K&N Filter,  140K 
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1981 Rabbit Pickup -Awaiting a TDI engine swap with a 96 Passat 1Z  
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