[Vwdiesel] front seal

[Marvin Jansen]

Hi Rudy,

Thanks for the info on the bolt and  sprocket.  On the tool, it looks
pretty easy to make out of 4" stock with holes in it, maybe I can just
make one myself.  How thick is the steel.
I had the head surfaced today at a place that does heads for the local
VW dealer so he seamed to know what to do and it looks good.  I am
more confident in a successful job now.  I will be putting it all
together on Saturday I hope and drive it on Sunday.

Marvin

On 7/19/06, Rudy <petersenrudy at hotmail.com> wrote:
> I got the idea for the tool from a guy in Canada, it really works slick, now
> every new one I change a timing belt on I change the sprocket and bolt
> probably just because its so easy.
>
> I hear different stories about changing the bolt so I just do.  The new bolt
> and sprocket doesn't use the thick washer so it is some kind of an upgrade,
> it's a 12.9 rather than a 10.9 something, so it is stronger.  You torque it
> to 60 ft. lbs. and then 180 degrees so it's pretty tight.
>
> How long do you figure you'll need it?  Just wondering if you're going to do
> the seal and put it right back together or if you need to take it off and
> leave it off for a while.  I'm happy to send you the tool.  I'll check on
> shipping and see what it will take.
>
> I always surface the heads whenever I have them off, you can't mill the head
> like you do a regular cast iron one you have to grind it because of the
> prechambes, you probably already know that.
>
> Rudy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Marvin Jansen [mailto:marvinjansen50 at gmail.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2006 11:39 AM
> To: Rudy
> Subject: Re: seal
>
> Hi Rudy,
>
> Your tool is smart  Ever think of patenting it?  Is the sprocket much
> different than the original and is the bolt a stretch bolt that needs to be
> changed?  Have you ever had a failure from an old one?
> I live at:  19 Circlewood, Tuscaloosa, AL 35405 A long way from Seattle,
> I've been there to visit wifes family that lived in Onalaska at the time.
> Would be glad to repay you for shipping for maybe UPS ground or 2 day.
> I am debating on having the head milled before I put in back on.  You can
> see where the gasket was leaking.  Any suggestions?
>
> Marvin
>
> On 7/19/06, Rudy <petersenrudy at hotmail.com> wrote:
> > Marvin,
> >
> > I went thru the same thing this time when I did this job.  I looked at
> > it closely and tried to make a small mark on the carrier to allow me
> > to push the Seal in but not contact the Crank face in back of seal.
> >
> > I figured the same thing, I don't think it will hurt anything for the
> > seal to contact the crank in the back, and I also figured it would
> > wear a little material off in time and be just fine.
> >
> > I also like the idea of the sealing surfaces of the seal riding on
> > different parts of the crank where there is no groove.
> >
> > Like I said, so far so good.  Where are you located?
> >
> > This picture is of the Tool before I did the final drilling of the
> > holes for the small bolts.  The fifth hole is for the divot on the
> > pulley so the tool will lay flat against the pulley.  It worlds very
> > well, now I change the sprocket and bolt every time I do a timing belt on
> a new vehicle.
> >
> > Rudy
> > Seattle
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Marvin Jansen [mailto:marvinjansen50 at gmail.com]
> > Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2006 5:18 AM
> > To: petersenrudy at hotmail.com
> > Subject: seal
> >
> > Hi Again,
> >
> > On the front seal, does this mean that if I drove the seal in as far
> > as it goes it will still work and be held in ok.   If it rides on the
> > crank a little it will soon wear enough to not be touching.  What do
> > you think?
> >
> > Marvin
> >
> >
> >
>