[Vwdiesel] '84 Diesel Rabbit Motor Oil 15W-40, 10W-40, 5W-40 . . .

mikitka mikitka at earthlink.net
Sat Jun 3 20:50:33 EDT 2006


Loren,

I'm not getting on the list again. Go figure. I guess the unsubscribe and
resubscribe trick might work.  

Anyway that last post I sent to you didn't get posted when you posted it for
me. Nothing showed up.  I guess you can't even post for me.  LOL

I wanted to let the list know that Auto-RX is a really great engine internal
cleaner. I have used it and it has made a big difference in my oil analysis
results. I think it is well worth it's price, which isn't cheap, $25 a
bottle last time I checked. That includes shipping.  If you go to the web
site. http://www.auto-rx.com/index.html
It tells all about it and how to use it.  Just follow the directions. I'm
related or connected to Auto-rx in any way. Just a satisfied customer that
feels it actually works, quite well too.

Thanks,
Nick

-----Original Message-----
From: vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com [mailto:vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com] On
Behalf Of Libbybapa at wmconnect.com
Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 12:34 PM
To: pmdolan at sasktel.net; bryankwalton at machlink.com
Cc: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] '84 Diesel Rabbit Motor Oil 15W-40, 10W-40,5W-40 . .
.

In a message dated 6/3/06 12:18:32 AM US Mountain Standard Time, 
pmdolan at sasktel.net writes:


> HOWEVER, your oil consumption is very high.  This is not cureable by 
> changing the oil.  

If it is a stuck ring, using synthetic can free it up.  It is also possible 
to change to an oil with a somewhat higher flash temp and drastically reduce

oil consumption.

> I would still bet strongly on the guide seals.   They can be changed very 
> easily with the engine in the car.  You need to make an "air hold" tool to

> keep the valve in place while you compress the spring (or if you are
REALLY 
> brave, let the valve press on the piston - a practice that I do NOT
recommend).  
> You need the valve spring compression tools, seal removal pliers, 
> installation drift, lash adjusting tools, cam alingment and timing tools.
If you don't 
> have, find a friend or shop with the tools, lots of experience and
patience 
> and use them.
> 

What is the downside to placing the given piston at TDC and using it to keep

the valves from falling into the cylinder?  How is pressing against the
piston 
top of significant difference from pressing against air pressure?

Would it be possible to simply clamp the timing belt to the three sprockets,

lift out the cam with sprocket attached and reassemble to the original
timing, 
negating the need for the cam and pump timing tools and greatly simplifying 
the procedure?

Andrew
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