[Vwdiesel] '84 Diesel Rabbit Motor Oil 15W-40, 10W-40, 5W-40 . . .

[Shawn Wright]

Although I have heard this before, my experience doesn't bear it out. The 
only engine I have switched to synthetic from dino (that didn't already leak) 
had no problems for the 9 years afterward - it never leaked a drop, even 
though it sat for months each winter in storage, and I changed the oil once 
per year. This was a 2.1L wbx in my Westy, so not a diesel. I used Mobil 1 
15w50 at first, then later switched to Amsoil 15w40 HD Diesel oil. Both of 
these oils were remarkable at curing the lifter problems common to this 
engine. Even after sitting for months, any lifter noise at startup was gone 
within seconds. With dino oil, it would sometimes take 20 minutes of driving 
before the noise went away. 
I have never run my diesels on synth for more than a few changes, as I've 
never been able to get them to stop leaking, before or after the synth. My TD 
Westy doesn't leak now, so I will try the Amsoil at next change and see how 
it goes...

On 3 Jun 2006 at 16:38, Terry Briggs <vbriggs at stny.rr.com> wrote:

> One thing I would advise though, is if you do switch to a 100% 
> synthetic oil is to at LEAST put a fresh valve cover gasket on the 
> engine, might even want to consider a pan gasket. Synth oil is great, 
> but any leaks you have, even if minor, will get worse with synth, it 
> flows that much better.
> On Jun 3, 2006, at 12:34 PM, Libbybapa at wmconnect.com wrote:
> 
> > In a message dated 6/3/06 12:18:32 AM US Mountain Standard Time,
> > pmdolan at sasktel.net writes:
> >
> >
> >> HOWEVER, your oil consumption is very high.  This is not cureable by
> >> changing the oil.
> >
> > If it is a stuck ring, using synthetic can free it up.  It is also 
> > possible
> > to change to an oil with a somewhat higher flash temp and drastically 
> > reduce
> > oil consumption.
> >
> >> I would still bet strongly on the guide seals.   They can be changed 
> >> very
> >> easily with the engine in the car.  You need to make an "air hold" 
> >> tool to
> >> keep the valve in place while you compress the spring (or if you are 
> >> REALLY
> >> brave, let the valve press on the piston - a practice that I do NOT 
> >> recommend).
> >> You need the valve spring compression tools, seal removal pliers,
> >> installation drift, lash adjusting tools, cam alingment and timing 
> >> tools.  If you don't
> >> have, find a friend or shop with the tools, lots of experience and 
> >> patience
> >> and use them.
> >>
> >
> > What is the downside to placing the given piston at TDC and using it 
> > to keep
> > the valves from falling into the cylinder?  How is pressing against 
> > the piston
> > top of significant difference from pressing against air pressure?
> >
> > Would it be possible to simply clamp the timing belt to the three 
> > sprockets,
> > lift out the cam with sprocket attached and reassemble to the original 
> > timing,
> > negating the need for the cam and pump timing tools and greatly 
> > simplifying
> > the procedure?
> >
> > Andrew
> > _______________________________________________
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> >
> >
> Third Wheel engineering
> Custom Design and Fabrication
> 2576 King Circle
> Corning, New York 14830
> Vbriggs at stny.rr.com
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Shawn Wright
http://members.shaw.ca/vwdiesels
'88 Westy 1.6TD 5 speed
'85 Jetta Diesel 1.6NA