[Vwdiesel] starting problem(things I forgot to mention)

[David Cook]

Paul-

If I were you, here's what I'd do:

Pull the injectors, and take them to a shop to be
tested--for sure.  (We know they should be good, but
you know what happens when you ASS-U-ME.)

While they are out, you should look in the holes at
the glow plugs.  Verify that they all are actually
getting bright red.  Again, we know that they should
be good, but who knows what could have happened since
they went in.

After you verify that the glow plugs are good and
before you get your injectors back, do a compression
test.

Everything you've said makes me think "compression"
personally, but then I'm not an expert.

Anyway, that is exactly what I'd do, though maybe
after parking it on a hill as was suggested to make
sure it wasn't an air in fuel issue.

David

--- paul lew <biovolks at yahoo.com> wrote:

> The cold start arm on the pump goes back and forth
> (I did check the cold start cable alignment), but
> the engine doesn't change rpm on the cars guage,
> there is no noticable difference whatsoever .When
> cold or hot.
>   It's a little rough for about 30 seconds after
> starting as if the cold start was pushed in (in/out
> no difference)
>   Paul
> 
> LBaird119 at aol.com wrote:
>   > I don't know if this is a coincidence, but the
> cold start doesn't work, 
> even though >we did the timing according to the
> manual (cold start in etc.)
> 
> How do you mean it doesn't work? It doesn't actually
> do anything or it 
> seems 
> like it doesn't do anything?
> 
> 
> > 
> > > It is a 85 turbo diesel which the book says
> doesn't have the timing 
> > advance, I >only have one indent in the cold
> start.
> 
> 
> It just doesn't have a fast idle. The knob advance
> still advances the 
> timing.
> With a cold engine you should be able to hear less
> rattle and a bit of 
> sputter 
> within the first 10 to 20 seconds of a cold start,
> when you push in the knob. 
> 
> It should smooth out when you pull it. You can
> push/pull a few times and 
> hear it. 
> When warm the difference is faint but you still can
> hear it when you push/
> pull the knob, if the timing is right. It gets a tad
> less rattly when it's 
> in.
> 
> 
> > 
> > > Thanks for any help
> > > Paul
> > > British Columbia Canada
> > > P.S.
> > > I had origionally thought that maybe the pump
> wasn't giving enough 
> > pressure for >the injectors until it warmed up ,
> because when I loosen the unions on 
> > the >injectors one by one, fuel comes out.
> > >
> > 
> Most of your description sounds like low
> compression. However timing 
> could do it as well. Just to reiterate; your timing
> should be 1.00mm 1.03mm
> is fine or almost preferred it seems. Don't just be
> sure the cold 
> start/timing 
> advance knob is pushed in when setting it, be SURE
> the lever behind the 
> pump is seated agains the sheet metal stop. Adjust
> the cable if it doesn't. 
> Likewise be sure it pulls fully when the knob is
> pulled out.
> Good battery cables (6V car size or better) can make
> a huge difference 
> in starting times. Sometimes they sound like they're
> cranking over fast 
> enough but a few more rpm can make a BIG difference!
> 
> There's a couple tractors on the orchard where an
> Optima makes at 
> least a -20F difference in starting without starting
> fluid! Cranking speed 
> counts.
> Air leaking into the pump can have similar symptoms.
> Parking nose down 
> hill is a good test for that. There are MANY places
> air can seep into the 
> fuel lines and not even let any fuel leak out!
> Glow plugs will generally glow full cycle if you let
> them. The light is 
> all that times. Just because they stay on doesn't
> mean there's a problem 
> ulesss they're still on 5 minutes later. ;-) You
> also don't REALLY know if 
> they're working properly unless you pull them or the
> injectors and have an 
> actual look! They don't often but CAN use full or
> nearly full current and 
> not 
> glow worth crap.
> It's also possible that compression could be low
> from having marginal 
> compression compounded by a wrong head gasket having
> been put in 
> with that head replacement. 
> You haven't checked the injectors it sounded like so
> assuming they're 
> not the problem often leads to a final result of
> them actually being the 
> problem! ;-)
> 
> I accidentally deleted your second post, thinking it
> was a hiccup post. I 
> realized it was actually different right after the
> fatal click. :-o Sorry 
> 'bout that.
> Loren
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David Cook
Red '86 Cabriolet Diesel Powered
Red '90 g60 Corrado 
Brown and White '78 Westy Campmobile "Bear"
and others in various states of disrepair
Pictures here: community.webshots.com/user/superdave5599

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