[Vwdiesel] fuel injection pump reinstallation

[Sandy Cameron]

At 10:57 PM 3/27/06 -0800, you wrote:
Per Bentley manual I don't have to prime the pump just crack the
>engine until the fuel comes out the lines before the injectors. I cracked and
>cracked and cracked but no fuel was visible flowing thru the transparent line
>from fuel filter to the pump. So, I am wondering is this the best way to suck
>the fuel out of the tank? Now the new filter is empty, could that be the
>reason? 

Yes.
Do the IV drip to the filter inlet (a container full of fuel held higher
than the engine/filter hung from the top edge of the hood) , start a syphon
flow and let it fill the filter, pump, and lines until no air comes out of
the fuel return exit from the pump. (Did I say to run a line back to the jug
from the pump exit?) Then go ahead and start it and let it run for 90
seconds, or until it runs smoothly. Once all air has been purged from the
filter, lines and pump, remove the temporary lines, and re-connect the lines
from the tank.
If there are no other air leaks in the fuel system, it should suck up
enought to get going without further problems.

As for cracking injector lines, if the system was working before you took it
apart, this is probably not necessary. Even when changing head gaskets (
with lines completely removed, and probably drained), I have not had to
bleed them after reassembly, just make sure the pump is full with the
gravity feed, and it will purge in a couple of revolutions.


>BTW, I am not able to get the tension I like on the timing belt no matter how
>high I try to lift the roller while tighting down the nut. The belt seems to
>deflect too much between the cam and pump. 

It's nice to have the pin wrench to adjust the roller and hold it while
tightening the nut,  (someday I'll make one) but the way I do it is stick an
appropriately sized allen key in one of the holes, and using a socket wrench
instead of a box-end, so I can pry the key with a screwdriver against the
socket to get the tension required, and then tighten the nut. You can't get
the thing tightened enough by hand (gorrillas excepted). I dont have a
tightness measuring tool, I set it by testing if I can move (slide) the belt
sideways an 1/8" on the pump sprocket with 2 thumbs and fingers. If more
than 1/8" slide play, too loose, If I can't move it, too tight.

This is a "several attempts" proceedure, until you find the sweet spot where
you can just slide the belt a little/not too much,  on the pump sprocket

Other indicators, some try to twist the belt between the cam and pump, for
about 45 to 90 degrees, I dont like that.

If the belt flaps between the cam and pump when running, it's too loose, if
it "sings" it is definitely too tight.

This was once referred to as "hillbilly tuning", a term, alas, no longer
used here.

Sandy