[Vwdiesel] 1985 1.6TD Jetta recently acquired

[82 Diesel Westy]

Sounds like a good deal, this is my 2 pennies.

* Inspect timing belt as noted, no need to change if
looks good.

* the oil should not have done to much harm, but only
a compression test will tell.  You can not get a
diesel compression tester for like $40 to your door on
e-bay, invest in it.  Do a compression test to put
your mind at ease.  Take time, but worth doing if you
want it for a daily driver.  Let us know what the
readings are.

* Have the injectors tested for spray pattern and
breaking pressure of 155 bar.  Not expensive.
I just used Antrim Diesel Service in western PA, great
place and very reasonable, $6 to test an injector, $15
to open it up and re-shim it to proper specs.
I made the mistake of getting a re-man injector, bag
said 155 bar turbo, but he injector was a NA injector
at 130 bar.  Sent it back to the Parts Place, they
say, oh, it is fine, it has been rebuilt to TD specs,
not enough TD injectors around anymore so they use 130
bar NA injector bodies, not unheard of, OK.  They send
it back to me for free.  I wanted to get my other
injectors tested, so sent this re-man injector to get
tested as well.  It was not a turbo injector at all,
so Antrim rebuilt if for me, I paid 2 times for all
this.  Parts Place would not refund the price of the
injector.  I should have has Antrim Diesel service
rebuild my leaking original injector.  Ahh
Antrim Diesel Service
47 Commerce Ave.
Greencastle, PA  17225
717-597-7963, ask for Kevin, he is the vw diesel head.


* If 12mm head bolts, stretch type, I would not
re-tourque them.


Bryan from NJ
--- James Hansen <jhsg at sasktel.net> wrote:

> Welcome to the diesel list Mike.
> Home of the smarter and better looking.
> 
>    but the owner didn't keep any of the receipts or
> know for
> > sure what all had been replaced, other than rings
> and bearings. 
> 
> then assume it got only rings and bearings. NO
> intermediate shaft 
> bearings, no head work.  File this info in the top
> drawer for future 
> reference if problems begin to arise later.  It will
> serve to make 
> diagnosis easier.
> 
> 
> It
> > supposedly developed a slight exhaust leak after
> about 2,000 miles that 
> > the rebuilder 'couldn't hear' and so wouldn't fix.
> 
> Is the underhood area and backside of head covered
> in soot, or clean? 
> If clean, it was only leaking a tad, and someone was
> going to fix it, 
> started, and gave up.  If covered in black soot, it
> was driven like that 
> for some time.
> 
> 
> > 
> > 1).  I found a half container of Valvoline 10W-30
> oil in the trunk, it's 
> > a non-diesel rated  oil;
> > if this is what the PO was running in the engine
> for its first 2,000  
> > miles, is there any thing that could or should be
> done to correct any 
> > problems that may have caused? ( I changed the
> filter and put in some 
> > Shell Rotella 15W-40)
> 
> Only by running the correct oil, as you have done. 
> Since he was running 
> the cheap stuff, assume that he treated the rest of
> the car that way in 
> your future repairs. Detergents in the shell should
> fix and remove any 
> leftover goo from running the wrong stuff.
> 
> What really distinguishes a diesel oil from a gas
> oil is the soot 
> handling ability.  Diesel oil can hold a lot more
> soot in suspension 
> than a gasser oil can. So, gas oil tends to deposit
> soot inside the 
> motor rather than keeping it suspended so it leaves
> when you drain the 
> oil. Running the right oil will fix this, with the
> caveat that if it had 
> tens of thousands of miles on the wrong stuff, with
> long drain 
> intervals, the crap inside the motor gets pretty
> extensive...not pretty 
> if you see it.
> 
> > 
> > 2).  Since I don't know whether the head was ever
> re-torqued, would it 
> > be wise to do so before I start putting any miles
> on it?  Could I 
> > possibly cause any problems by doing so?
> 
> I would suspect it was.  He obviously had it back
> about the exhaust 
> leak, so must have been back for that I would hope. 
> There's no way to 
> check if it has been done or not??... unless you can
> get in touch with 
> the original rebuilder, or the previous owner
> remembers.  if it hasn't 
> been done, it will leak.  Then I guess, you will
> know for sure... :-)
> Retorquing it again if it has been would run the
> risk of bolt breakage 
> on the torque to yield fasteners.
> 
> One way to circumvent this and end the speculation
> would be to install 
> Raceware  or ARP studs.
> They can be installed by doing it one at a time, so
> you don't lose head 
> sealing.  I would suggest this if you want to do it.
>  I prefer studs 
> anyway... since I detest the stretchy bolts with a
> passion.  You should 
> not lose a head sealig over a single overheating
> event... which you do 
> with torque to yield fasteners. As soon as the motor
> overheats (the 
> aluminum head gets hot and expands faster than the
> steel bolt), they get 
> stretched when the force on them exceeds their
> elastic limit.  studs 
> give you some elbow room, and you can retorque them
> whenever you choose 
> with no damage.
> > 
> > 3).  Judging from the reading I've been doing, the
> timing belt seems to 
> > be properly tensioned, and
> > doesn't seem to be showing any overt signs of
> impending failure, 
> 
> Timing belts rarely ever do show signs of overt
> failure, that's why the 
> maintenance interval.  They go from a nice little
> belt, to one that is 
> good except for the missing teeth around the crank
> sprocket area.  It's 
> quite a dramatic outcome over a few teeth.
> 
> is it
> > possible that the belt could
> > have 'plenty of life left in it', assuming that it
> was replaced during 
> > the rebuild? 
> 
> Assuming, of course, that the guy that was too tight
> to buy the right 
> diesel oil won the lottery and sprang for a belt.  I
> can hear it now; 
> "Hell no Sam, that has plenty of life left in it,
> just put it back on, 
> I'm selling it anyway."
> 
>   I guess there's no way to tell for sure, but
> thought I'd
> > ask in case there actually is a way.
> 
> If the belt is new, with 2000 miles on it, it will
> still look new.  No, 
> make that it will still look BRAND NEW.  You should
> be able to read the 
> numbers, and manufacturer's insignia clearly, they
> should be hardly 
> disturbed in 2000 miles at all.  If it looks worn in
> the slightest, 
> assume it is ready to explode tomorrow.  Replace
> both the tensioner and 
> the belt.  I would bet real money that the tensioner
> is OEM original to 
> the car, and has spun for 190000miles.  By this
> time, the tensioner is 
> ready to go, usually a quarter way into the belt
> replacement interval. 
> If you don't get curious soon enough as to what the
> goofy noise by the 
> timing belt is, the belt gets eaten, and the valves
> crash when the 
> tensioner dies, and your next post to the list is
> entitled something 
> like "My timing belt just died, what now?"
> > 
> > If you got this far, thanks for listening, and
> thanks in advance for any 
> > insights / advice any of you may have to offer.
> 
> Friends don't let friends use *spit* Fram.
> know it. live it.
> -james
> _______________________________________________
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> Vwdiesel at vwfans.com
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> 



 
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