[Vwdiesel] '81 Rabbit questions

[LBaird119 at aol.com]

In a message dated 12/16/2007 4:57:19 PM Pacific Standard Time, rbp at 4u2bu.org 
writes:

> 1. running HOT
> yesterday on the highway got up into the red
> got out, checked her over thoroughly, topped up coolant
> made it the rest of the way driving @ 55
> but still flirting with the red

  Get it up to temp and put a candy thermometer, point an 
IR thermometer or what have you, in the coolant reservoir.  
See what temp it's ACTUALLY running at.  The gauge is for 
comparative purposes until you KNOW what actual temperature 
it relates to.
  If it's hot then pressure cap as Mark suggested, plugged rad, 
leaking head gasket, bad water pump are the main things.  Look 
for bubbles in the small, return hose when you're checking the 
temp in the reservoir.


> and few minutes ago the oil light was a faint dull red for a minute  
> or two after a short local drive
> possibly oil filter? oil pressure? hate to admit I haven't put a new  
> filter on there since I bought it


  Dim glow on the op sender would be some sort of short rather than 
necessarily being low oil pressure.  Could be lots of gunge on the 
sending unit or could be a bad sender or actual low pressure and 
it doesn't make good contact.  Again, test pressure with a mechanical 
gauge to know for sure. 

> 
> 2. leak
> don't know if this is related, but where the PCV hose comes into the  
> air filter it's wet on top of the filter housing - I assume oil, but  
> maybe had a little diesel smell to it?
> excessive blow-by?
> head gasket?
> but the coolant has no sign of oil
> anyway, damp up there


  It's not unusual to have some weeping around where the hose connects
to the filter housing if the clamp's not snug.  It's also not unusual to have
oil mist get on the filter or even to puddle in the bottom of the housing and 

everything still be normal.

> 
> 3. klunk
> OK, on to the suspension
> pass side gives an alarming clunk occasionally going over bumps or  
> around corners - anytime flexing of or shock to the frame
> not sure whether from or rear - SOUNDS like front when I'm driving,  
> but when I get out and shake the tires I hear it in the rear
> any ideas what this might be/where I should look?


  Brake calipers without anti-rattle clips will clatter heavily and loudly 
when going over rough road.  Lightly touching the brake will make it 
go away.  That diagnoses one noise.  A solid bang when going over 
a big bump is generally a bad strut.  Light clunk to rattle sound that 
isn't either of the above is often fixed by shortening the sleeve under 
the top strut nut and washer a bit.  You can find this noise by lightly 
bouncing the front corner.  It'll clunk.  You may need to lift as well as 
push down. 
  Noise on the rear wheel sounds like the wheel bearing needs tightened.
Stand facing your rear tire.  Put one foot on the top of the sidewall/tread 
corner.  Push and get it rocking.  If you hear a clunk then tighten the 
wheel bearing nut until it JUST goes away.  Even if you replace the 
wheel bearings, do this occasionally (on about ANY of these cars) to 
check the rear bearings.  Fixing this will really improve that loose 
feeling similar to shot rear shocks.  Then do your other rear wheel.

> 
> 4. door locks
> driver's side door will not lock w/ the key
> I have to reach in from the passenger's side to lock or unlock
> how to fix?
> 
> 
  Sounds like someone may have swapped door handles and 
didn't swap the lock cylinder that was originally with the car.
Two phillips bolts hold the handle in, one in the door jamb, one 
under the front of the trim piece in the handle.  Take the handle 
and your key to a locksmith and he can re-pin the cylinder to fit 
your key.  Call and see if he wants your passenger one to compare 
to.

  Now, no running veggie oil in the crankcase!
     Loren


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