No subject

cluster may have a poor ground and/or dirty or loose
connections.

When you remove it, simply make sure all the
connections are clean and tight.  I saw a suggestion
to place a piece of electrical tape on the hard
plastic under the blue mylar circuit board.  This will
make it a bit thicker and force a tighter connection. 
Also, you can take a straight pen and use it to
tighten up the connections on the plug.

Also, if you stick your head under the dash, above the
fuse box there should be a little "grounding tree"  If
you remove and replace each connector one or two
times, that will clean up any corrosion and help it
ground better.

HTH,

David


--- James Hansen <jhsg at sasktel.net> wrote:

> 
> 
> Doug Presny wrote:
> > 1982 Diesel Rabbit Car
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > 1.)     I had a fuel injection pump leak at the
> "head" seal.  Since
> > changing this O ring was a slippery slope that
> would result in me buying
> > a rebuilt injection pump, I tried the fix of
> running transmission seal
> > fluid into the injection pump and leaving
> overnight.  Maybe only
> > temporary, but the leak has stopped for the last
> two weeks.
> > 
> >  
> Interesting.  It's a seal swelling agent, so...
> be prepared to repeat when the the seal sweller
> leaves the seal.
> > 
> > 2.)     Since I purchased the car, it has been
> missing the plug that
> > covers the visual access to the flywheel.  I was
> told by one person that
> > these are purposefully left off to facilitate
> cooling.  Is this true, or
> > should I replace.
> > 
> >  
> False.
> keep the dirt out with the plug, if the clutch
> needed cooling, that 
> means it is slipping, and in need of service... and
> no amount of cooling 
> fixes that, or helps it in any way. It's sealed to
> keep the dirt/fluids out.
> 
> > 
> > 3.)     The front seats have a lot of play when
> locked in.  I assume
> > there are some wear parts that can be replaced. 
> Any guidance on what to
> > replace and where to buy replacement parts.
> > 
> >  
> There are plastic shoes on the ends of the seat feet
> that run in the 
> track.  Careless removal/replacement of the seat can
> break them, and the 
> busted parts bugger off, letting the seat rock.  It
> shouldn't (rock).
> 
> > 
> > 4.)     The glow plug light does not always come
> on when starting
> > although the dome light does dim in the position
> where the light would
> > normally come on.  The car has also been starting
> well, so I assume it
> > is just the indicator light.  Whenever the glow
> plug light doesn't come
> > on, the oil indicator light stays on all the time.
>  I will be removing
> > the dash soon, so any guidance on how to remedy
> this is appreciated.
> > Also, how do you identify which relay is the glow
> plug relay.
> > 
> 
> Run a wire from the glow plug bus bar to a light you
> install yourself 
> somewhere to indicate if the plugs are lit, and
> forget the dash light. 
> It's a timer no more, fixing could be as easy as a
> relay replacement, 
> BUT you know if it's cold.  If it's cold, count
> fifteen billygoats, then 
> hit the starter.  A light to the bus bar ensures
> that the plugs have 
> power, that's the important part.  The dashlight
> just tells you when to 
> start the car based on engine temperature, nothing
> more, and is in no 
> way connected to the plug circuit.
> -james
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> 


David Cook
Red '86 Cabriolet Diesel Powered
Red '90 g60 Corrado 
Brown and White '78 Westy Campmobile "Bear"
and others in various states of disrepair
Pictures here: community.webshots.com/user/superdave5599


 
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