[Vwdiesel] Burning Crankcase Oil (Val Christian)
Keith Family
familykeith at vtrocket.com
Sun Jul 8 13:35:59 EDT 2007
I have burned waste crankcase oil in the 1980 Rabbit Diesel I
owned back at that timeframe. I did it only once. The resultant
purchase of a new diesel fuel filter for at the time $18 (which
exceeded the cost of a full tank diesel fill up) seemed counter
productive. I'm not sure I would do it in my current 03 Golf TDI
since fuel filters have hardly gotten cheaper in the interim and
if anything, the car generally is more finicky and "precise" than
the Rabbit was.
Instead I elected to go in another direction. Contrary to a lot
of perceptions, burning waste crankcase oil on site is in fact
endorsed by the EPA since they view the clean efficient
combustion of oil preferable to spilling in transport even one
tanker truck full of waste oil headed to the recycler. They
throw out numbers of one drop of oil can contaminate 10000
gallons of water or similar to justify their stand.
And if you think of it, the minor heavy metal contamination of
waste oil is severely overshadowed by the contamination by carbon
as "blow by" to the combustion process. The oil may look dirty
and in fact it is but primarily with particulate carbon -
especially for diesel engine waste oil.
The farm where I worked had 12 diesel powered tractors (up to and
including an IHC 3588) and elected NOT to burn or fuel dispose of
their waste oil. With tractor fuel filters running upwards of
$25 each, the farm would rather not gamble operability of a
tractor on the marginal cost savings of burning their waste oil.
Instead the waste oil is donated to the town who does have a
commercial waste oil burning system in the town barn and is
always pleased to receive more grist for their mill.
I've always had a personal interest in alternate energy schemes.
I've tried burning waste oil in both the Mother Earth News (MEN)
waste oil burner and the revised version by Roger Sanders shown
at
http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel_library/ethanol_motherearth/me4.html.
The downside to both of these is that oil and air must both be
precisely "metered" to support combustion properly. Too much air
and combustion is too cold to occur properly and can "blow" out.
Too little air and you get smoking. These are stove for those
who like to "tinker" literally. Almost constant attendance is
required to keep the thing on an even combustion keel.
Others have converted #2 oil burners to burn waste oil and
generally these conversions are more successful but typically
involve an air atomising Delavan nozzle and preheated/metered
oil. Various versions of these can be seen at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/wastewatts/ but you have to join to
see the messages. The downside of this methodology of waste oil
burning is the large amount of "support" necessary to make
efficient burning of waste oil possible. (It's not unusual for
nearly a thousand watts of electrical support energy to be
required between, burner motor, oil heater, nozzle preheater, and
controls - all this for perhaps 100K btu per hour heat output.)
And of course there are the multitude of "online" instructions
available for a fee including Ebay, Heco, Benjamin Little Dragon
and some others.
Or you can bite the bullet and buy a full fledged waste oil
burner from Lanair, Econoheat or a bunch of others.
Best I can say for myself now nearly 20 years after my first
efforts in this direction is that burning of waste oil continues
to be an ongoing experiment usually undertaken when the woodpile
begins to show the effect of a cold winter.
Best,
Joe
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