[Vwdiesel] More Dasher?

[James Hansen]

ARP studs will come with two torque values- one for threads lubricated 
with motor oil, one lubed with their molybdenum assembly grease- "ARP 
Assembly Lubricant", which comes with the kit- you apply it to the 
degreased and dry bolts once they are in the head, and on the machined 
washers.

Use whatever in the block hole. You aren't screwing anything in there 
with anything other than fingers for torque, so the chances of cracking 
a block from hydraulic action in a blind hole is nil, so motor oil is 
fine.  As long as you use something other than water and salt you'll be 
fine, they will come out after.  Do not screw them in tight.  IF they 
are tight, there is a problem, fix that first.   I assume you will have 
some tightness on the cracked bolt holes, however.

On any fastener, the fastener material and thread pitch determine the 
clamping force.  ARP will have a different torque than factory since the 
thread pitch is different than on a factory torque to yield bolt- which 
in this case is what makes them so much nicer to torque- the fine thread 
pitch is easier to turn and still attain the correct clamping force.  I 
know you know what you're talking about Loren, but the head gasket likes 
having the piss squeezed out of it, the more the merrier.  Factory 
values are centered around shitty stretchy bolts that were designed for 
easy factory assembly, and budget constraints, not necessarily just for 
optimum head sealing.

Some time ago I calculated the difference between studs using arp 
values, and stock head bolts on the chev stuff.  The clamping force was 
around double the stock fastener- hence the ability to reliably run big 
compression numbers, and still keep the head sealed.  The pistons and 
rocker arms may need to be changed like socks, but the head stays sealed....

Still, William, that doesn't change the fact that you are actively 
tilting windmills.  The block is cracked from hydraulic cracking of the 
blind head bolt holes in the block.  There is no glue made that will 
keep iron from cracking once it has a good start.  I hope you realize 
the chances of this working for the long term are poor, and that a few 
more hours invested into a good block at this point saves many hours 
later.  Still, it's your party.  Have fun with it.  Far be it from me to 
try to dissuade you with wisdom, logic, and other such frivolity.

Oh, I just read Will's contribution from TDI club.   note the torque 5 
times bit.  We do that all the time on the race motors- but nobody 
mentions how or why.  The most reliable way to get consistent torque is 
to bring the fastener up to value, then back it off just a bit, 
retorque, loosen slightly, etc. This gets the layer of lubricant in the 
threads to a consistent level by squooshing out the excess, so the 
friction is consistent, hence torque is consistent.
About destroying your torque wrench by loosening fasteners, to my 
knowledge that only applies to encased beam and torsion bar dial 
indicating torque wrenches, if you have a toggle action one (it clicks) 
or a bending beam one (still the best, most rugged, and most accurate) 
you have no worries, just torque, loosen, torque, loosen, etc etc...

later
-james


LBaird119 at aol.com wrote:
>   As Brian said, they should come with torque specs.  I was 
> thinking Raceware torqued to 58lbs but not sure, just a little 
> less than OEM 11mm studs.  I don't fret about a couple extra 
> lbs though.  They also say to use a teflon based thread sealant 
> for the studs to block threads, motor oil for the nut to stud 
> threads. 
>   Retorque is dictated by the head gasket not the bolts.  I'd 
> still torque, warm up and retorque, drive 600 miles and retorque 
> but no loosening on any of those.  I always check the torque 
> when I check valves too.  Doesn't hurt.
>      Loren
> 
> 
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