[Vwdiesel] Weird brakes
Erik Lane
eriklane at gmail.com
Wed Jan 2 17:23:19 PST 2008
Those things make sense to me. Tomorrow when it's light out I'll take a look
and see if any of them exist. I already looked for something physically
holding the pedal inside the car, but I'll take another look to be safe. I
have no idea about how well the installation was done. I'll take it apart
and double check. Since this problem started right after the replacement
that really sounds likely.
Thanks,
Erik
On Jan 2, 2008 4:27 PM, Sandy Cameron <scameron at storm.ca> wrote:
> At 01:09 PM 02/01/2008 -0800, you wrote:
> >My brother is having an odd problem on his rabbit, and I don't know what
> to
> >tell him.
> >
> >His brakes will work fine for anywhere from 20-50 miles, but then slowly
> >build up pressure until the car wants to stop. If he opens the two
> nozzles
> >on the sides of the master cylinder the pressure releases and is then
> fine
> >again for a while. This happens over and over. He recently put a new
> master
> >cylinder and one new brake line on the car, and afterwards is when this
> >started.
>
>
> Before going for another MC, I suggest, just remove the 2 nuts that hold
> the
> MC to the booster, and pull it out amd re-seat it, being careful to get
> the push rod properly seated in the socket in the mc, and no crudd in the
> socket.
>
> Also, is there any chance he lost the gasket that goes between the mc and
> the booster? And now the mc is too close to the booster.
>
> And last, but first, did he bench bleed it properly? air in the system can
> cause the noted symptom.
>
> Still, the mc piston has to be being held too far forward, covering the
> relief ports, to get it to pressurise like that. Probably not properly
> installed.
>
> No floor mats preventing the brake pedal to travel all the way
> out/release?
> Look up under the dash to ensure no wiring, insulation, loose panels, are
> preventing full release of the pedal
>
>
> Sandy
>
>
>
>
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