[Vwdiesel] Remember bad starting man.

[Erik Lane]

Wow, impressive! On one that I worked on they were torx bits, and on a
couple others they were just standard screws, but on all of them I
needed to use an impact driver to break them free. I came very close
to damaging the screws trying with just a screwdriver. So I needed to
have them out and on the bench.

So if working on it with it in place works for you, that's great! I
haven't had any luck doing that. Just be aware and if it doesn't feel
like it's going to give then watch out you don't ruin the head of the
screw.

I've heard you can also get those o-rings from a hydraulic supply
house, but I haven't done that personally.

Erik

On Sun, Nov 30, 2008 at 7:37 AM,  <decker at toledotel.com> wrote:
> Hi Iain:
>    The pump is the easy one to fix. I know you will probably cuss me before
> you are done but you can fix the pump without taking it off. Since the cold
> start valve is on the engine side of the pump there is very little room to
> maneuver. I used a small right angle screwdriver and perhaps a needle nose
> vice-grips to get the two machine screws out. If you look at the outside of
> the pump opposite the cold start valve you will see a cover with two screws.
> I just dispensed with the cold start rod and cover and used a solid cover
> from the opposite side of another pump I had laying around. The cold start
> valve only functions to advance the timing at low speeds to make the engine
> run smother. I haven't had a cold start valve working for a couple of years.
> When you get the cold start cover and shaft off you will see there is an O
> ring on the shaft and another that seals the cover. I would go to a truck
> diesel engine shop and I'm sure they would have such. Here in the States one
> would look for a Cummins or Caterpillar engine dealer. Put the thing back
> together just 2 screws and you have saved big bucks. Shouldn't take but an
> hour or so to get it off and back on plus whatever time it takes to go to
> town and locate a couple of O rings.
>
>    My 1.6 N/A 1981 Dasher had gotten so it would start but almost
> immediately die. I had to glow and start it two or three times when cold. I
> replaced the fuel filter and that didn't help but still felt it was a fuel
> delivery problem so I put a full can of Diesel-Purge in the fuel tank and
> now it starts like it should. Replacing a tank is a good thing. They are
> prone to leak where the fuel line comes out when they get old.
> Brian Decker
> Western Washington
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Iain Hunter" <sagspottery at tiscali.co.uk>
> To: "VWfans" <vwdiesel at vwfans.com>
> Sent: Saturday, November 29, 2008 10:05 AM
> Subject: [Vwdiesel] Remember bad starting man.
>
>
> Remember me. Iain, with the T3 1.6 TD that wouldn't run.
>
> Well a month later, and the problem is still not sorted. I changed the
> plugs, and tested they were getting hot, which they were. I checked the
> filter was free of water, I advanced the pump, and all number of other small
> checks, but still had the same problem.
> Last week I decided to have it towed around to a local garage to see if they
> could diagnose the fault. The mechanic said that he was sure it was the
> tank, as when he ran it off a Gerry can directly to the pump, it fired up OK
> and the fuel-line/ tank junction had rusted through to virtually nothing and
> it was probably sucking air. (I had to take his word for this as it was
> something I hadn't checked, but I have known him for a while). So he ordered
> a new tank, fitted it and I picked it up that night, running fine. The next
> day, it wouldn't start again and had exactly the same symptoms - stuttering,
> running lumpy and cutting out after about 30 seconds - so I got the guy back
> round. It was at this point that I noticed a pool of diesel underneath the
> pump that had not been there before. It looks like it is dripping from the
> cold-start spindle, and according to the mechanic, this is going to cost
> big-time. Now, it looks as though I might have to pay for a tank and fitting
> that didn't really need replacing, and the garage mechanic that I trusted
> seems to be losing my confidence by the second.
> According to said mechanic, a pump expert could service the pump at around
> £50 per hour???
> I already have to replace a leaky exhaust manifold gasket and a leaky oil
> return pipe from the turbo, which were going to be my next jobs. This could
> mean having the manifold skimmed, as I think it could be warped, and if the
> bolts don't come from the head easily, then it could turn really nasty.
> I am fairly new to diesel engines, and although I can do some jobs myself, I
> am beginning to think it would be cheaper to stick-in a used engine.
> Would a straight swap for a later 1.9TD or D be a viable alternative to
> loads of small, costly repairs? I am beginning to think a straight diesel
> might be better, as there is less to go wrong.
>
> Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Iain.
>
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