[Vwdiesel] Rebuilt IP / Engine Won't Start

[William A. Thompson]

If indeed the fuel system is purged of air and
bubbles all the way from the tank to the injectors
....

Take the guts out of the fuel stop solenoid and
see if it runs above idle and under load.

A few years ago the progression of one of my
Rabbits problems started out by running fine but
every once in awhile it would shut down just like
turning off the key .... usually under very heavy
load while climbing one of our western mountains.
Progressed to shutting down under relatively light
load. Then started shutting down as you wound it
up thru the gears on flat ground always seeming to
shut down at about the same RPM regardless of
gear. Soon I couldn't get out of first without it
bucking violently and then shutting down or I
would shut it down because of the bucking. Got to
the point of starting up fine but "as soon as I
give it any throttle it dies immediately" like
yours. All the while it would fire up immediately
afterwards.

The whole time the stop solenoid would click
appropriately when energized and after it died I
could hear the solenoid click when de-energizing
it afterwards.

Finally in desperation I gutted the solenoid of
it's seat and spring .... fired it up .... and it
ran thru the gears fine at any RPM and load. Of
course shutting it down required letting the
clutch out abruptly while in gear. New stop
solenoid and it's been running fine ever since.

I surmised that at first .... the solenoid was
opening but when the flow of fuel became high
enough a weakened magnetic field of the solenoid
coil was overcome by the venturi effect of fuel
going by it .... or something to that effect ....
causing the seat to close and shut off the fuel.

Try gutting the solenoid of it's seat and spring
so it can not close off fuel and put it back in
with only the coil which is housed in the thread
body. Fire it up and see how she runs.

    ... Bill

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "William Longyard" <longyard at ix.netcom.com>
To: <brian at gochnauer.net>; <vwdiesel at vwfans.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2008 8:04 AM
Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Rebuilt IP / Engine Won't
Start


> Hi Brian,
> I don't think the problem is the cylinders, I
think it is the IP.  I say
> this because I can get the engine to idle, but
as soon as I give it ANY
> throttle, it dies immediately.
>
> Bill
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "brian gochnauer" <brian at gochnauer.net>
> To: <vwdiesel at vwfans.com>
> Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2008 10:37 AM
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Rebuilt IP / Engine
Won't Start
>
>
> > I've rebuilt hundreds of Caterpillar diesels
and have often had to ream
> > the
> > ridge to get the piston out, but would never
use a cylinder (liner) that
> > had
> > a ridge in it. I've never rebuilt a VW diesel,
but have heard this reaming
> > honing and puting new pistons and rings in the
bore on forums many times.
> > I find it hard to believe that this can be a
good practice, I'd say that a
> > ridge would be at least .020 to bore size and
is VERY hard to accurately
> > measure because of the slope of the ridge.
> >
> > William,
> > If you measured the bore after completely
removing the ridge, what was the
> > bore size.?
> >
> > I'd say leaving any ridge in the bore is going
to be a problem because the
> > new piston and ring could constantly
'slapping' that ridge and break the
> > piston ring. Honing is only going to make the
bore bigger. Fitting the
> > ring
> > (gap) in the bore is going to be far from good
considering the taper.
> > Although a crank speeds the rings may expand
fast enough to keep a seal
> > against the cylinder wall at higher speeds
that is going to more
> > difficult.
> > Of course that explains why I hear about
people re-ringing the engine
> > every
> > 50k miles, to keep it running.
> >
> >
> > On Sat, Sep 20, 2008 at 10:09 PM, William
Longyard
> > <longyard at ix.netcom.com>wrote:
> >
> >> I've got a rebuilt IP pump that I just put on
my rebuilt engine.  I'm
> >> having
> >> trouble starting it.
> >>
> >> I used new turbo piston in my 1600NA engine,
and I ridge-reamed and honed
> >> before installing them.  Ring gaps are to
specs.
> >>
> >> My compression from 1-4 is: 380, 385, 380,
375psi.
> >>
> >> I believe this compression is low, but know
that the rings haven't seated
> >> yet, and those are figures for a stone cold
engine.
> >>
> >> When I crank over the engine for a long time
it ALMOST wants to run, and
> >> a
> >> couple of times I have been able to get it to
run for a few seconds.  I
> >> found that by backing the idle screw all the
way OUT, it seems to want to
> >> run a little bit more.
> >>
> >> However, if I step on the throttle it dies
immediately.  Is the governor
> >> set
> >> wrong?  How do I set the governor?
> >>
> >> Other ideas?
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >> Bill Longyard
> >>
> >>
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> >> Vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> >>
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> >>
> >
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