[Vwdiesel] Rebuilt IP / Engine Won't Start

Sun Sep 21 13:19:48 PDT 2008

Bill,

Wow!  I de-gutted the solenoid and the engine fires right up, and runs 
smoothly now.  Sounds like it should.  As it idled, I purged the injectors 
again, so I know there is no air in there.

HOWEVER!!!!!!!!!   I still cannot get it to accelerate.  The INSTANT I move 
the throttle, the engine dies.  I've tried this from the engine bay itself 
with my hands.  If I just BARELY touch the throttle, the engines immediately 
cuts off.

Also, I have to back the idle adjust screw all the way out to get the engine 
to run at all.

Help!

Bill L.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "William A. Thompson" <toogreek at gmail.com>
To: <vwdiesel at vwfans.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2008 2:40 PM
Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Rebuilt IP / Engine Won't Start

> If indeed the fuel system is purged of air and
> bubbles all the way from the tank to the injectors
> ....
>
> Take the guts out of the fuel stop solenoid and
> see if it runs above idle and under load.
>
> A few years ago the progression of one of my
> Rabbits problems started out by running fine but
> every once in awhile it would shut down just like
> turning off the key .... usually under very heavy
> load while climbing one of our western mountains.
> Progressed to shutting down under relatively light
> load. Then started shutting down as you wound it
> up thru the gears on flat ground always seeming to
> shut down at about the same RPM regardless of
> gear. Soon I couldn't get out of first without it
> bucking violently and then shutting down or I
> would shut it down because of the bucking. Got to
> the point of starting up fine but "as soon as I
> give it any throttle it dies immediately" like
> yours. All the while it would fire up immediately
> afterwards.
>
> The whole time the stop solenoid would click
> appropriately when energized and after it died I
> could hear the solenoid click when de-energizing
> it afterwards.
>
> Finally in desperation I gutted the solenoid of
> it's seat and spring .... fired it up .... and it
> ran thru the gears fine at any RPM and load. Of
> course shutting it down required letting the
> clutch out abruptly while in gear. New stop
> solenoid and it's been running fine ever since.
>
> I surmised that at first .... the solenoid was
> opening but when the flow of fuel became high
> enough a weakened magnetic field of the solenoid
> coil was overcome by the venturi effect of fuel
> going by it .... or something to that effect ....
> causing the seat to close and shut off the fuel.
>
> Try gutting the solenoid of it's seat and spring
> so it can not close off fuel and put it back in
> with only the coil which is housed in the thread
> body. Fire it up and see how she runs.
>
>    ... Bill
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "William Longyard" <longyard at ix.netcom.com>
> To: <brian at gochnauer.net>; <vwdiesel at vwfans.com>
> Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2008 8:04 AM
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Rebuilt IP / Engine Won't
> Start
>
>
>> Hi Brian,
>> I don't think the problem is the cylinders, I
> think it is the IP.  I say
>> this because I can get the engine to idle, but
> as soon as I give it ANY
>> throttle, it dies immediately.
>>
>> Bill
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From: "brian gochnauer" <brian at gochnauer.net>
>> To: <vwdiesel at vwfans.com>
>> Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2008 10:37 AM
>> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Rebuilt IP / Engine
> Won't Start
>>
>>
>> > I've rebuilt hundreds of Caterpillar diesels
> and have often had to ream
>> > the
>> > ridge to get the piston out, but would never
> use a cylinder (liner) that
>> > had
>> > a ridge in it. I've never rebuilt a VW diesel,
> but have heard this reaming
>> > honing and puting new pistons and rings in the
> bore on forums many times.
>> > I find it hard to believe that this can be a
> good practice, I'd say that a
>> > ridge would be at least .020 to bore size and
> is VERY hard to accurately
>> > measure because of the slope of the ridge.
>> >
>> > William,
>> > If you measured the bore after completely
> removing the ridge, what was the
>> > bore size.?
>> >
>> > I'd say leaving any ridge in the bore is going
> to be a problem because the
>> > new piston and ring could constantly
> 'slapping' that ridge and break the
>> > piston ring. Honing is only going to make the
> bore bigger. Fitting the
>> > ring
>> > (gap) in the bore is going to be far from good
> considering the taper.
>> > Although a crank speeds the rings may expand
> fast enough to keep a seal
>> > against the cylinder wall at higher speeds
> that is going to more
>> > difficult.
>> > Of course that explains why I hear about
> people re-ringing the engine
>> > every
>> > 50k miles, to keep it running.
>> >
>> >
>> > On Sat, Sep 20, 2008 at 10:09 PM, William
> Longyard
>> > <longyard at ix.netcom.com>wrote:
>> >
>> >> I've got a rebuilt IP pump that I just put on
> my rebuilt engine.  I'm
>> >> having
>> >> trouble starting it.
>> >>
>> >> I used new turbo piston in my 1600NA engine,
> and I ridge-reamed and honed
>> >> before installing them.  Ring gaps are to
> specs.
>> >>
>> >> My compression from 1-4 is: 380, 385, 380,
> 375psi.
>> >>
>> >> I believe this compression is low, but know
> that the rings haven't seated
>> >> yet, and those are figures for a stone cold
> engine.
>> >>
>> >> When I crank over the engine for a long time
> it ALMOST wants to run, and
>> >> a
>> >> couple of times I have been able to get it to
> run for a few seconds.  I
>> >> found that by backing the idle screw all the
> way OUT, it seems to want to
>> >> run a little bit more.
>> >>
>> >> However, if I step on the throttle it dies
> immediately.  Is the governor
>> >> set
>> >> wrong?  How do I set the governor?
>> >>
>> >> Other ideas?
>> >>
>> >> Thanks,
>> >> Bill Longyard
>> >>
>> >>
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>> >
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