[Vwdiesel] Rebuilt IP / Engine Won't Start

[James Hansen]

yeah, buddy made it look about as tough as getting gum out of the bubble 
pack, but yeah, line all the lines up and it's good.  He said once in 
the blue moon he'll misalign it, like mine, but it was no biggie to 
correct, wish he would have just described it to me like just Erik did, 
I would have done it myself.  The piece of brake line is the thing to 
use on the springs, it's a fight otherwise.
BUT, having thought about this a bit, having to have the idle screw 
backed out all the way just to run points to the top lever misaligned, 
most likely one line off, but that still doesn't explain why it quits 
when you give it throttle. That sounds like a fuel restriction.  These 
pumps work off internal case pressure- take away the internal pressure, 
it all goes to crap- no fuel regulation, no advance...  The banjo with 
the orfice on the correct line (the return) is critical like Sandy 
pointed out.  It keeps case pressure that the internal vane charge pump 
produces.
Resetting the max fuel to increase fueling large amounts (turn in) 
changes the operating range of the top lever as well, so huge changes to 
increase fuel will also cause you to have the low idle screw backed out 
all the way just to achieve idle, and correspondingly the high idle will 
also be turned in to limit the high no load idle. fueling and governor 
operation in a VE work in synergy with one another, but that STILL 
doesn't explain why it won't come off idle with throttle application.
I'd dink with it a bit more, then take it back to the shop.  The top 
cover may have to come off, as it could just be assembled wrong... not 
that there is a lot there to go wrong either- part of the beauty of 
these pumps is the simplicity. Could be as simple as a spring off on the 
fulcrum lever.
-james

Erik Lane wrote:
> Yeah, that spring is really the only tough part about it all, other
> than just putting things back on in the right order. There are three
> different sets of lines that the groove in the top of the threaded
> shaft can line up with. But you won't see them until you have a couple
> things taken off. If I remember right the lines are in the first thing
> that you put on the shaft... Note the position when you take it off to
> make sure you only shift it one notch. As long as you take your time
> it's not too bad. I usually grab that spring in a pair of vice grips,
> but a still brake line sounds like it would work really well. I don't
> happen to have any sitting around, but it might be worth getting to
> avoid the hassle of that spring - it's pretty strong.
> 
> Erik
> 
> On Sun, Sep 21, 2008 at 9:33 PM, James Hansen <jhsg at sasktel.net> wrote:
>> Funny you should mention that.
>> The pump I had rebuilt (resealed) this summer for my sprayer had this
>> very thing wrong with it, only it was one spline out the other way from
>> where it should be.  It went to max rpm on starting, no throttle action
>> at all.   Slightly embarassed buddy at the Bosch shop came out and reset
>> it (it was a rush job he squeezed in, so it's forgiveable).  Not tough
>> at all actually.  Bunch of lines all line up, put on spring, arm,
>> spring, cap,nut,fight, then with a piece of steel brake line, put the
>> springs on where they attach to the lever.
>> -james
>>
>> Tony and Lillie wrote:
>>> Did you rebuild the pump, or where was it rebuilt?
>>>
>>> You shouldn't have to mess with any of the adjustments. I've had about 10
>>> rebuilt locally for customers and myself, and never *had* to mess with any
>>> adjustments at all. I did mess with the fuel screw on mine, to gain a bit of
>>> milage (also lost just a bit of power), but it was not necessary when
>>> getting the car running.
>>>
>>> Tony
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: "William Longyard" <longyard at ix.netcom.com>
>>> To: <vwdiesel at vwfans.com>
>>> Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2008 5:32 PM
>>> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Rebuilt IP / Engine Won't Start
>>>
>>>
>>>> Bill,
>>>>
>>>> The truck ran find until I changed the pump.  I changed the pump because
>>>> the
>>>> seals in the old one were leaking.
>>>>
>>>> When I adjusted the fuel screw both in, and out, there was NO difference
>>>> in
>>>> the amount of smoke produced, only the engine speed changed.
>>>>
>>>> The idle screw has to be adjusted all the way out to get the engine to
>>>> idle.
>>>>
>>>> If I take out the washer that goes in front of the fuel screw, and thus
>>>> screw it in another 1/8", the engine speeds up, doesn't smoke, and I can
>>>> also get a little play with the throttle, though opening the throttle
>>>> causes
>>>> the engine to slow down.
>>>>
>>>> I believe something is wrong with the throttle, but am not sure why just
>>>> barely touching it (with the fuel screw set normally) would cause the
>>>> engine
>>>> to stall.
>>>>
>>>> Bill L.
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