[Vwdiesel] Smokey, Bubley engine
Kurt Nolte
syncronized_turbo at yahoo.co.uk
Tue Nov 3 11:56:59 PST 2009
Since I've only pulled heads with the engine out, my usual procedure
involves filling the head bolt holes with my solvent of choice, letting
it soak for a bit, chasing the threads with a tap, then flipping the
whole assembly over on the stand and blowing it out that way.
-Kurt
LBaird119 at aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 11/3/2009 2:22:16 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> toensing at wildblue.net writes:
>
>
>> I torqued 11 mm non-stretch bolts to the recommended torque.
>>
>
> The 11mm bolts were NOT stretch bolts, they torque to 67 ft/lbs
> I think. The 12mm bolts ARE stretch and torqe to 45 I think, then
> 180 degrees, warm up the engine, go another 90 degrees, drive
> 600 miles and do ANOTHER 90 degrees! :-o
>
>
>
>> I may pull the head again &see if I can plug that leak where the block
>> was cracked, any suggestions as what type of glue might work the best to try &
>> save the block & avoid pulling the engine although I have a couple spare
>> engines I could use? I didn't know the 11 mm engines had a reputation for
>> weak blocks, but that doesn't surprise me.
>>
>
> They really don't have a true reputation as a weak block, just a
> lot of backyard mechanics that are used to quickly blowing out a
> hole (maybe) and then assembling the engine. Diesels have tight
> tolerances and VW apparently carried that to the head bolt hole
> depth as well. 90% of the time (or more?) it's operator error not
> the block's fault.
> You could try JB weld. I remember someone doing that on a crack
> then rigging up an external clamping arrangement on that cracked
> corner.
> Loren
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