[Vwdiesel] Smokey, Bubley engine

[Dave Cook]

The time I did mine (engine in car) I filled the holes with solvant and let them sit for a bit.  Then I used a twisted up end of a rag to soak the solvent out of the holes.  I had saved one of the old bolts and cut some grooves down the sides of the threads with a dremel and ran this down each bolt hole to clean up the threads, and finished with more solvent and soaking it up.

No problems with cracked blocks.

On a couple of the other old bolts, I cut the head off and cut screwdriver slots on top and screwed them in a few mm to use to center the new gasket and head.  I put the head on the "studs" and tightened a couple of the new bolts.  Then I used the screwdriver slots to back out the studs and finished the job.

Dave Cook


--- On Tue, 11/3/09, Kurt Nolte <syncronized_turbo at yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

> From: Kurt Nolte <syncronized_turbo at yahoo.co.uk>
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Smokey, Bubley engine
> To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> Date: Tuesday, November 3, 2009, 7:56 PM
> Since I've only pulled heads with the
> engine out, my usual procedure 
> involves filling the head bolt holes with my solvent of
> choice, letting 
> it soak for a bit, chasing the threads with a tap, then
> flipping the 
> whole assembly over on the stand and blowing it out that
> way.
> 
> -Kurt
> 
> 
> 
> LBaird119 at aol.com
> wrote:
> > In a message dated 11/3/2009 2:22:16 AM Pacific
> Standard Time, 
> > toensing at wildblue.net
> writes:
> >
> >   
> >> I torqued 11 mm non-stretch bolts to the
> recommended torque. 
> >>     
> >
> >   The 11mm bolts were NOT stretch
> bolts, they torque to 67 ft/lbs 
> > I think.  The 12mm bolts ARE stretch and torqe to
> 45 I think, then 
> > 180 degrees, warm up the engine, go another 90
> degrees, drive 
> > 600 miles and do ANOTHER 90 degrees!  :-o
> >
> >
> >   
> >> I may pull the head again &see if I can plug
> that leak where the block 
> >> was cracked, any suggestions as what type of glue
> might work the best to try &
> >> save the block & avoid pulling the engine
> although I have a couple spare 
> >> engines I could use? I didn't know the 11 mm
> engines had a reputation for 
> >> weak blocks, but that doesn't surprise me.
> >>     
> >
> >   They really don't have a true
> reputation as a weak block, just a 
> > lot of backyard mechanics that are used to quickly
> blowing out a 
> > hole (maybe) and then assembling the engine. 
> Diesels have tight 
> > tolerances and VW apparently carried that to the head
> bolt hole 
> > depth as well.  90% of the time (or more?) it's
> operator error not 
> > the block's fault.
> >   You could try JB weld.  I
> remember someone doing that on a crack 
> > then rigging up an external clamping arrangement on
> that cracked 
> > corner.
> >     Loren
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