[Vwdiesel] swapping a good head - DIY head prep??

[LBaird119 at aol.com]

In a message dated 11/9/2009 12:18:00 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
william at taygan.com writes:

> Real problem is constant valve tap on '82 Westy, I think it's shaved so
> much that I haven't been able to really adjust it out.  Maybe I could
> pull the head and put in a 3 notch gasket?  (have a 2 notch now)  
> 
> ** But it's the same issue: Can I pull a "good" head and prep it at
> home, or do I need to get it shaved at the shop - which won't work for
> this head (that's the only way they do it up here...)
> 

  I do all my own head work other than surfacing and I can actually 
do that now.  A friend up the street has a valve and seat grinder. 
I recently acquired a nice (OLD) valve grinder.  :-D  Stem seals and 
guides are best done with a couple special tools and reamer but 
they can be done with a variety of available tools.  
  Back to yours though.  If it's tapping then you have one of two 
issues, valves are "too long" from grinding the seats and/or valves, 
or the cam timing is off.  
  The cam lifts valves a set amount regardless of how much you've 
surfaced the head.  New heads have the valves durn near above the 
level of the head surface.  Some actually are.  Head gaskets are 
selected according to piston projection to maintain compression 
ratio, not to compensate for valve adjustment or replacement. 
  Grind your valve or seat and you'll definitely need to shorten the 
stem length anywhere from .008" to nearly .020".  It takes time and 
never seems to come out right the first time no matter how I try.  I 
set for 3.70 or 3.75 shims since they're so prevelant from original 
build.
  You should be able to fix your head with just a day or two of down
time if it's stem lengths, a couple hours if it's cam timing.  I'd go with 
the correct head gasket.
    Loren