[Vwdiesel] Cost per mile
James Hansen
jhsg at sasktel.net
Tue Aug 31 20:58:12 PDT 2010
Honda factory doesn't recommend replacing the water pump, but the local
bunch replace them as a matter of course. To get back into the water pump is
a repeat of the labor bill to do the belt, which dwarfs the pump cost. They
were having failures a few years after the t-belt was done, so kind of balk
at not replacing it, since you're right there. If the customer insists, they
don't do it.
On the cam chain thing.
Funny how people used to bitch endlessly about those stupid timing belts you
have to change, what a stupid design, blah blah blah. Now that the BEW has
an internal chain that is doomed to leave this earth in a shower of metal
filings playing in the key of scored pistons. Timing belts don't look so
bad anymore, eh? (I'm Canadian, can you tell?)
Oh, and I'll take that bet on 500K. My money's on 300k when it'll need
rings and guides if the chain or balance module lets it go that long.
Stupid exhaust gas recyclers.... I'm not giving mine the chance to let me
find out, it's leaving in Nov.
-james
> -----Original Message-----
> From: vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com [mailto:vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com]
> On Behalf Of Tad
> Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2010 3:29 PM
> To: mailing list
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Cost per mile
>
> VW doesn't require replacement of idlers or water pump either(not to
> say you
> shouldn't do it!), but at least the Honda is probably non-interference,
> right?
>
> On Tue, Aug 31, 2010 at 1:40 PM, travis gottschalk
> <tgott at hotmail.com>wrote:
>
> >
> > I was just relating to the cam cost. Also I expect (if I don't crash
> the
> > car) the car to last 500k miles on the engine alone without needing
> major
> > engine work outside of injectors, cam and oil pump (since the cam
> failing
> > sometimes if not caught soon enough takes that out as well). The gas
> engine
> > by design I have heard stated won't last much past 250K miles (give
> or take
> > some) because of the dryness of gas wears the rings causing
> compression loss
> > and oil burning. That and you have to figure most engines have (with
> the
> > rear exception of cummins and maybe a few others having gear driven
> cams)
> > have chains that don't last much longer then the rings either so you
> will
> > also have to replace the chain. The repair to do that at 250K miles
> plus
> > labor (rings, honing and timing chain) will be more then the diesel
> with the
> > timing belt with cam cam change at 100K plus labor since you don't
> have to
> > remove the engine on timing belt and/or the cam.
> >
> > We are starting day three on the Honda timing belt. We got the bolt
> off
> > with 6ft of breaker bar and pipes. I find it funny that they don't
> require
> > the idler pulleys to be replace nor the water pump.
> >
> > On a side note my brother is rebuilding his 80 VW truck. So far no
> damage
> > from running it out of oil. This is where he drove up to his place
> and left
> > a trail of oil from the busted oil pressure gauge line. So it was
> still
> > bleeding oil when shut off but didn't have any left when he drained
> it but I
> > think it was caught literally in time. All bearings and cylinders
> look good.
> > He is getting a gasket kit and putting it all back together. It
> needed to be
> > sealed anyways as it was weeping some.
> >
> > One the tranny output flanges he couldn't find new ones and the old
> ones
> > have seal groves worn into them. He is getting a speedy sleeve put on
> the
> > old ones. I will list the part number when he gets it to me but his
> drivers
> > side was leaking and the parts place guy said they almost always leak
> on
> > that side. Come to think of it so did my 4 spd (my brothers is a
> leaking 5
> > spd at the moment with less the a year old seals). Is that from the
> shorter
> > drive shaft putting more of a steeper angle on the CV joint and
> pressure on
> > the flange then?
> >
> > Travis G
> >
> >
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