[Vwdiesel] More missing parts!

[Erik Lane]

I had some issues getting a yellow dot pump timed right, and finally
ended up timing it by ear and that worked well. I say this because at
first my timing was retarded, though not as much as yours! I had extra
smoke (unburned fuel) out the exhaust, lower power than normal, and I
also had an issue where the pump didn't want to return to idle as fast
as normal. It still would, but it would take ~5 seconds rather than ~1
second. I think because I had to have the fuel turned up a bit in
order for it to idle that it was putting in a fair amount of fuel even
at 'idle' accelerator position. (That's just an educated guess.)

At any rate, those were the main things I saw. Also very low mpg - I
came in at 35mpg, which is 10 lower than I had been getting with my
old leaky pump. I haven't had it correctly set for long enough to know
for sure, but I am getting better mileage right now. Last tank was
over 45mpg, but I suspect that the average will be slightly above
that, just from how it was filling. (I think the time before it was a
little low, and this time it seemed to fill very full.) I don't think
I'll get 50mpg, but maybe 47-48?

Erik

On Mon, Jul 5, 2010 at 8:38 PM, Robert Downes <bobdownes at gmail.com> wrote:
> so , i moved the pump back a tooth, and ended up off by almost as much, in
> the other direction. the pin is now nowhere near going in, so i guess i had
> it 'right' before. still, i left it this way because my injector tubes
> seemed like they'd rather be shifted in this direction.
> HERE<http://imgur.com/UFqA5.jpg> is
> a picture of how much the pump moved. i'm at 1.01mm on the dial now.
>
> what are the expected symptoms of super retarded timing like i apparently
> had? remembering that the LDA was not connected and the
> internal-pressure-operated timing advance likely not working? i'm excited to
> see if there's a big improvement. a kindly lister is supplying me with a
> mounting bracket and TBC hardware, and i think i'll wait until those get
> here to try starting it.
>
> thanks for your advice, everyone
> -bob
>
> On Sun, Jul 4, 2010 at 11:42 AM, <LBaird119 at aol.com> wrote:
>
>> In a message dated 7/4/2010 4:21:20 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
>> bobdownes at gmail.com writes:
>>
>>  As far as the timing, it's REALLY easy to end up one tooth retarded
>> when  r&r-ing the timing belt, which it sounds like you probably did.
>> When you put the lock pin in the pump gear, it has a little slop and
>> due to internal spring pressure, it tends to rest at about 2/3 of a
>> tooth retarded.  If you don't rotate it back then you'll put the
>> belt on one tooth retarded.
>>
>>  The missing pump mount bracket tends to make the engine surge
>> since the pump will wobble back and forth a bit.  I've seen a few
>> do this.  If your timing WAS indeed at .61mm this whole time, then
>> you may not notice any surging.  It shouldn't be thick enough to need
>> a longer bolt and I doubt whomever did it went to the trouble to find a
>> shorter one when they inexplicably took the mount off.
>>
>> > when the PO, a friend of mine, got the van(, the the IP leaked fuel
>> > from the LDA breather. he needed to use the van, is not super into
>> > research.
>> > he opened the pump looking for a bad gasket, did not find the o-ring
>> > around
>> > the pin separating the pump body from the LDA, determined that there was
>> > too-high pressure in there, found the 'weird' restricted out bolt hole,
>> > opened this hole up a bit(luckily not too much), van still ran, no more
>> > leak, he was happy.
>>
>>   Ok, so what's this weird restricted out bolt hole?  Do you mean
>> the "out" banjo bolt from the pump to the return lines?
>>
>> from the looks of it, sometime before this, someone (he
>> >
>> > says it wasnt him) tried to adjust the internal pressure by banging the
>> > lift
>> > pump pressure regulator piston allllltheway down. this is the condition
>> > the
>> > pump was in until yesterday, including the aforementioned
>> > trans-caddy-corner-continental-mega-trek i got me hands on a new o-ring,
>> > out
>> > bolt, reset the pressure regulator, and rigged a pretty nice internal
>> > pressure guage attachment so once i get the thing running, i should be
>> > able
>> > to set it right lickety-split. just need to get a handle on my terror at
>> > this dial reading. i'm making way too big a deal out of a measly .4mm,
>> > aren't i?
>> >
>>
>>   .4mm is a LOT.  If the internal pressure regulator pin is what was
>> tapped down, it screws with the timing and he may have backed
>> it off to compensate for it.  So if that's been messed with and the
>> "out" banjo, you need to replace that banjo bolt, to regulate the
>> pressure properly and you need that regulator set properly as
>> well.  Both control the timing advance and it's never going to run
>> RIGHT if they're wrong.  I just dealt with the regulator pin being in
>> too far on one and "simply" had it taken care of during a rebuild.
>> You're not likely to get it right by guess and by golly.  :-(  A rebuilder
>> should be willing to set that and replace the banjo bolt reasonably.
>> They might even have that bracket/mount too.
>>     Loren
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