[Vwdiesel] More Quantum Questions?

mark shepherd mark at shepher.fsnet.co.uk
Mon Jul 12 17:21:36 PDT 2010


I agree with Loren, that these pumps should self prime the lines usually. 
But of course in this case Bill has struggled to get the beast started. 
Cranking with loosened lines in this instance , not only helps to clear the 
lines, but mpore imortantly allows Bill to see that the fuel lines are 
pressurizing. If they are not, then seeing as the lines are opaque, nthere 
is no means of  knowing if fuel is getting to the injector...

Normally these engines are very tolerant if driven carefully. I recently 
drove the car 150 miles with the coolant cap resting loosely on its threads! 
By the time I discovered my error a few days later, there was only 3 pints 
of water in the engine.  (Level sensor not connected as this was a gasser 
body)  Only symptom was fan coming on in traffic more than usual, or when 
shutting down.  Filled her up when cold and no problems. This is a tired old 
engine, yet just achieved 0.5% in smoke test, and is getting 40 to 42mpg US 
continuously.

Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <LBaird119 at aol.com>
To: <vwdiesel at vwfans.com>
Sent: Monday, July 12, 2010 4:18 PM
Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] More Quantum Questions?


>
> In a message dated 7/12/2010 2:00:39 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> toensing at wildblue.net writes:
>
>> Somehow, I don't think fuel is getting to the injectors but will
>> disconnect one at a time to see if I am getting fuel first. One of the 
>> discussions
>> talked of filling the IP by removing the outlet banjo fitting &filling it
>> but said this was difficult with a turbo IP.
>>
>
>  You can pull the stop solenoid and fill as much as you can there.
> Yeah, durn near impossible to fill the pump through the banjo on a
> TD pump.  You could use some type of syringe, small dribble hose
> or such though.
>  I NEVER crack the injector fittings to start these engines.  Never
> have to and it maybe saves a few seconds of cranking.  Filil, bleed
> the pump and lines as much as possible, either with suction or
> pressure to the tank and a second person.  Then charge the battery
> and crank for 10 to 15 second intervals at full throttle.  Full throttle
> isn't needed to help bleed or start sooner but it helps get it limping
> to a start once it starts firing.  When it DOES start to fire, stop
> cranking, let it glow again then crank.  If it keeps barking but not
> quite starting, keep the starter going to carry on the momentum.
> Once it starts keep it at full throttle until rpm reaches about 1500
> or so then start backing down to keep it at a fast idle.  It'll smooth
> out and run.
>    Loren
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> 





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