[Vwdiesel] [Vwdiesel sub-frame and alignment

[raymond greeley]

thanks for all the thought and ideas on alignment. I will do this before the engine goes in so i car more easily measure toe in at 3 and 9 oclock, passing the tape through the engine compartment.

 

ray
 
> Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2010 11:05:10 -0800
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Front end sub-frame
> From: eriklane at gmail.com
> To: rgreeley2 at hotmail.com
> CC: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> 
> If the car is sitting on a level surface, use a bullet level and get
> the tires pretty close to vertical. (I don't think they're supposed to
> be perfectly vertical, but that would be close enough.) Then if you
> take a straightedge across the tires you can get the toe-in pretty
> close to what it should be by measuring the same place at the front
> and rear of the tires with a tape measure from one tire to the other.
> If you make them very close to the same front and back (of the front
> tires) then it will be pointing pretty well down the road. I don't
> have the numbers handy, but I think they're supposed to have a very
> slight amount of toe-out to handle properly.
> 
> Using this you should at least be close enough to drive. I use it and
> am mostly happy with the way my car drives. When I get a chance I'm
> still going to have a pro do it right, but finding the time when
> neither my wife nor I needs the car for long enough to take care of it
> has proven very difficult. Make sure to do the vertical (camber) and
> then do the toe-in because the camber adjustment affects the toe-in.
> 
> Erik
> 
> On Fri, Mar 12, 2010 at 10:56 PM, raymond greeley <rgreeley2 at hotmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > Hello shayln and others whom replaced bushings. I would like to replace the bushing on my 86 cabrio that i am converting to diesel, where did you find the replacements. I had to replace the steering rack as the cabby was an automatic/gasser.
> >
> > does any one have a back yard method for getting the alignment close enough that i can drive it while i get some of the other systems sorted out. cold start, glow circuit, second tank (heated) for wvo and all the cosmetics as it has sat for 7+ years.
> >
> >
> >
> > r
> >
> >> Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2010 20:17:26 -0600
> >> From: sshourds at flash.net
> >> To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> >> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Front end sub-frame
> >>
> >> On 3/12/2010 7:00 PM, Tony and Lillie wrote:
> >> > It's actually not all that hard to replace. You will have to unbolt the steering rack, and the rear engine mount IIRC. THen, support the engine from underneath (I usually put a 12" piece of 2x6 under the oil pan. THen, four bolts and it will come off the car. At that point, you have te remove the control arms from it, and I think that should be all. It's been a few years, though, so I might be forgetting some things. It's the same as the Golf also, and should be fairly plentiful.
> >> >
> >> > BTW, my last three cars have been from the rust belt, and I feel your pain.
> >> >
> >> > Tony
> >> >
> >>
> >> Agreed. I just R&R'd the one on my '85 Jetta in order to replace the
> >> steering rack and it's not all that bad. The only reason it's taken me
> >> forever is that I'm not especially motivated. There's also the matter
> >> of having to pull the front shift bushing carrier, but I needed to
> >> replace the shifter ball in the cab anyways. I'm also taking the
> >> opportunity to replace all of the other various bearings and bushings in
> >> the front suspension. At 315,000, a disturbing number of them were
> >> just...gone. The car still handled pretty well, so I'm eagerly
> >> anticipating getting to drive it when I get it put back together
> >> finally. I went ahead and put in a little stiffer bushings all the way
> >> around. Not that much more expensive and if they're irritatingly firm,
> >> I don't drive that car much these days so it won't matter.
> >>
> >>
> >> -Shalyn
> >>
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> >
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