[Vwdiesel] subframe update

[James Hansen]

You can cut three sides of a 1-1/2" square in the body sheetmetal above the
nut and fold the body metal up and away to see the captured square nut in
it's little tin cage, wrestle it out, and replace it with another. 
Easiest, and fastest fix for this.
Skip weld the trapdoor shut with a mig after, prime and undercoat.

This is a very common problem with these.  Salty moisture wicks up the bolt,
rusts the friggin thing solid.  Worse is to have the nut break loose and
spin as you're turning it "out", then the whole thing spins, and lefty
doesn't loosie anymore.  At least you have stuff off, and can work at it
easier. Trust me, it's a blessing that the bolt turned off rather than the
nut break free and spin like a button on an outhouse door. 
-james

> -----Original Message-----
> From: vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com [mailto:vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com]
> On Behalf Of Chris Geiser
> Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2010 11:32 AM
> To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> Subject: [Vwdiesel] subframe update
> 
> Update:  I found a replacement front subframe for my 92 Jetta (remember
> old
> one rusted out / cracked by drivers side control arm).  Got the old
> subframe
> out and off the car, but not without some attrition...
> 
> The main bolt that holds the subframe to the frame twisted off on both
> sides.  I used a breaker bar on one side slowly, and it twisted off.
> So I
> used an impact wrench on the other, and that still twisted off. They
> are
> bolts that goes through the subframe mounting arm and into the body,
> where
> there feels to be a nut that is held in place by some type of casing.
> The
> nut is inside the body but appears to be loose - not so loose that it
> turns
> through, but loose enough that I can turn the remaining bolt about
> 1/6th of
> a turn back and forth and wiggle it.  There's about an inch of the old
> bolt
> sticking out of the hole - I can get a vice grip on it, but no luck
> getting
> it free of the nut inside the body.  By pushing on it, I just appear to
> be
> loosening the nut in the body within it's housing rather than loosening
> the
> actual bolt shaft.
> 
> I've sprayed PBblaster up into the area around the bolt remains while
> wiggling side to side;  heated it; sprayed again; but still not free.
> I'm
> hesitant to crank any harder or I might free the nut in the body, or
> break
> off the bolt flush with the body... either of which are undesireable
> outcomes.
> 
> Advice?  Suggestions?  Anyone ever cut up this post on the body to see
> what
> I'm dealing with inside?
> 
> thanks guys,
> 
> Chris
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