[Vwdiesel] Oil Leak

[Stephen Kraus]

Okay, well I have the piece of paper from the 11mm ARP Kit, it states the
following:

'With the ARP Provided lubricant you must torque to 90 ft/lbs in a 3 step
process, run the engine and then re-torque each stud 3 x in 3 steps again'

Also, referenced here:

http://vwdieselparts.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8490&sid=7820ca9dd9c9a22f052d3c76cdd14dea

<http://vwdieselparts.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8490&sid=7820ca9dd9c9a22f052d3c76cdd14dea>AND
Here is ARPs Product Guide in PDF format, go to page 24 and look for 11mm
and find the tensile strength bolt you ordered

In NONE of those categories is 65 ft/lbs even an option, the lowest grade
studs they have are listen as 72 ft/lbs

I'd recommend re-torquing again at the correct settings

On Sat, Sep 18, 2010 at 9:42 AM, Rudy Petersen <petersenrudy at hotmail.com>wrote:

> By front of the Head, I meant front of the Engine facing forward when
> you're
> standing in front of the Car and looking at the Engine.  Actually it is the
> left side of the Engine in the Proximity of the #3 Cylinder.  It's a brand
> new re manufactured 1981 11mm Head Bolt Engine  I've used the same machine
> shop for years, they don't make mistakes like this.
>
> Everyone I talk to about the torque specs for the Studs says something
> different so I figured no one really knows what they're talking about.  A
> reputable VW Engine builder in my area suggested I torque them to OE specs.
> The clamping force would be greater than OE Bolts due to the fine threads
> on
> the nuts and the ARP Lube, made great sense to me.
>
> Thanks everyone for the suggestions and your time..........Rudy
>
>
>  _____
>
> From: brian hoeft [mailto:qweblog at gmail.com]
> Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2010 7:54 AM
> To: Rudy Petersen
> Cc: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Oil Leak
>
>
> Rudy,
> It would be helpful if you could be more precise in your explanation. I'm
> also unaware of which engine you're referring to.
>
> By front of the head, you do mean the timing belt side correct? Not much it
> could be there, cam/intermediate/crank seal, valve cover&head gasket.
>
> I dont believe the head studs need to be re-torqued but someone may chime
> in
> with something more definitive, although your torque values dont match my
> notes. Mind you, this is regarding a 1.6TD (code-MF). My ARP notes say
> 80ft.lbs with ARP moly lube and 120ft.lbs. with 30wt oil.
>
> If everything you did was proper, I would question the work of the machine
> shop. A so-called reputable shop, locally, cost me a lot of money and could
> have hurt my reputation, so I now have to travel 100 miles round trip to
> have confidence in that aspect.
>
> Also, what compression "appears" to be is not always the case. As im sure
> you know, cold compression isn't hot compression. If the guy brought you
> the
> car running and failed to tell you that it took several more cranks than
> usual to start, that could be a tell tale sign. Otherwise, only a
> compression or leakdown test would really answer the question.
>
> Also, be careful you're not deceived by oil that gets moved around be the
> fan or pressure. I've seen plenty of oil leaks that look like theyre coming
> from somewhere other than the actual source.
>
> -Brian
>
>
>
>
> On Fri, Sep 17, 2010 at 1:28 PM, Rudy Petersen <petersenrudy at hotmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>
> I'm working on a Customer Car that came in with an Oil leak in the front of
> the Head.  I had completely rebuilt the Engine, Head was machined flat as
> well as the Block surface.  I used ARP Head Studs and torqued them to OE
> spec (65 ft. lbs.) I didn't re torque the Studs and there is 3000 miles
> since the install.
>
> Engine runs very well, no Oil in Water and doesn't appear to be any loss of
> compression.  I'm going to re torque the Studs and clean up the area and
> see
> what happens.  Anyone ever run across this?
>
> Rudy
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>
>
>
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______________________________
Stephen Kraus
UB3RATL4Sf00 at gmail.com;