[Vwdiesel] more vacuum pump

[lbaird119 at aol.com]

If the aux shaft bearings are worn (as most originals are) then changing the pump could be just enough to change the load and lose a tad more pressure where it's probably marginal already.  That or someone put a wrong oil sender in at some time and the light is coming on sooner than it should.  Correct one is somewhere around 1psi!  I've seen a few where low oil pressure is simply low oil pressure.  Of course this time of year, if it's about due for an oil change, the old oil is thicker, in the cold, and takes longer to bring up pressure or maintain pressure.  Recently changed oil in the pickup and the oil light started going out much quicker than the alt light rather than vise versa.
    Loren



-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew .Libby <libbybapa at gmail.com>
To: sandy cameron <scameron at storm.ca>
Cc: diesel <vwdiesel at vwfans.com>
Sent: Sat, Dec 15, 2012 6:19 pm
Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] more vacuum pump


The oil pump shaft and slot in the vacuum pump are centered so they can go
ither way without issue.  There is a small seal in the bottom of the vac
ump gear that seals to the shaft of the oil pump.  If that seal is bad or
issing oil pump will definitely be lower.

n Sat, Dec 15, 2012 at 5:49 PM, sandy cameron <scameron at storm.ca> wrote:
> On 12/15/2012 4:23 PM, Scott Alexander wrote:

> So I got a rotary pump.  It came with some directions that seem to have
> been translated poorly talking about an oil feed.  In the hopes that it all
> came down to "make sure that the tab inside the block fits into the slot
> inside the pump", I assembled it all.  I blocked off the hose from the
> crankcase to the old pump by shoving a bolt in the hose and tightening down
> the hose clamp.  Otherwise, I assembled it as I would the old pump.  When
> completed, I took a quick spin around the parking lot.  The good part is
> that I now have assist on the brakes again.
>
> The bad part is that, after a short time, the oil light comes on.
>  Normally, it comes on with the alternator light when I turn the key to
> "on".  They both remain on until the alternator starts producing a
> reasonable voltage and they both go off.  That is still happening.  It's
> just that a short time later the oil light comes back on.
>
> Any ideas as to what I messed up this time?
>
>  A few thoughts. How stiff did the vacuum pump feel when you rotated it?
 It is driven by the intermediate shaft, which is FRICTION-DRIVEN by the
 smooth BACK of the timing belt. If the pump is stiff, it may cause the belt
 to skid on the smooth pulley.

 Did you replace the big O-ring under the vacuum pump? perhaps it is being
 forced down into the slot on the oil pump shaft, binding and making it
 difficult to turn.

 I think the tab and slot are offset a bit to one side (used to drive the
 distributor on the gassers) .
 There's a 50% chance if there's space, if it's worn, to insert it the
 wrong way and bind it.

 Because of the friction drive, make sure everything is free of sticking or
 stiffness, or you may loose oil pressure.

 Sandy

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